The Tasting Panel magazine

December 2014

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december 2014  /  the tasting panel  /  75 ◗ Legendary Chef Hubert Keller, who's restaurant Fleur is at Mandalay Bay, agrees that chicken is a dish that ought to be a staple on any menu. "In France, chicken is considered to be on the same level as a rack of lamb or a veal chop," he explains. "Every three-star Michelin restaurant I have worked in has offered chicken on the menu, either paired with truffles or foie gras At L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, a Jidori chicken cooked with foie gras and paired with a faro wheat black truffle risotto reflects what Sebastian Dumonet says is Robuchon's belief in "taking something simple and making it extraordinary." As the Director of Joël Robuchon Restaurants in Las Vegas, Dumonet admits that while Vegas may skew toward "acclaimed and rarer game birds such as quail, duck or guinea hen," there is great depth waiting in the simplicity of chicken. "The importance of preparing a more household and accessible ingredient such as chicken—and the importance of preparing it well— remains a constant and the source of inspiration for a younger and newer generation of cooks and chefs." But humble as this bird may be, chefs are increasingly finding new ways to explore its possibilities. "At Le Cirque, we utilize only certain parts of the chicken, and cook each piece separately in order to showcase the best flavors and presentation possible," says Bergerhausen, who also cites using small farm-raised chickens as a way to pump up his poultry game. All this talk of chicken have you looking to fly the coop to Vegas yet? Here's a rundown of some of the top chicken dishes on the Strip, and where to find them: • Roasted chicken breast served with fingerling potatoes, Fleur, Mandalay Bay • Roasted chicken with asparagus and chanterelles, Le Cirque, Bellagio • Mediterranean chicken skewer, Julian Serrano, Aria • Grilled chicken breast with mustard and Valdeón sauce, Jaleo, The Cosmopolitan • Grilled free-range chicken breast marinated in herbs, crushed red pepper, white wine and Dijon, served on a bed of spinach, Canaletto, The Venetian • Roasted chicken with corn, braised Swiss chard and oyster mushrooms, Bouchon, The Venetian • Roasted chicken with Yukon Gold potatoes, goat cheese and wild mushrooms, Spago, The Forum Shops at Caesars Palace At Hubert Keller's Fleur, roasted chicken is the name of the game. Here's a recipe that's sure to have you clucking. Fleur Roasted Chicken ◗ 2 pounds organic chicken, with wings Frenched ◗ 1 pound fingerling potatoes, split in half lengthwise ◗ 4 sprigs thyme and rosemary ◗ 1 cup cherry tomatoes, cut in half ◗ 1 cup blanched cipollini onions, cut in half ◗ ½ pound butter ◗ Olive oil ◗ Salt and pepper ◗ 5 garlic cloves, lightly smashed ◗ Thoroughly wash the chicken and then salt it liberally. Stuff the cavity with half of the thyme and rosemary. Let the chicken sit uncovered overnight to ensure that it dries and forms a skin. ◗ Preheat the oven to 500 degrees and place a pan in the oven to sear the chicken. When the oven is preheated and the pan is hot, place the chicken in the pan with the breast facing up and straight into the oven for 25–30 minutes, or until the internal temperature of the chicken reaches 155 degrees. The chicken will continue to cook and reach an internal temp of 165 degrees. ◗ When the chicken is done, take out of the oven and let it rest it for eight to ten minutes. ◗ While the chicken is in the oven, toss the potatoes in olive oil, salt and pepper and place in them in the oven to roast until they are almost tender. Take them out, place them in a pan and add the butter, the rest of the thyme and rosemary and garlic. Toss them over a high flame till they are tender and the butter turns slightly brown in color and nutty in aroma and flavor. ◗ When ready to serve, break the chicken down in to quarters. Use the thyme and rosemary from the potatoes to garnish your plate. At L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, a Jidori chicken cooked with foie gras and paired with a faro wheat black truffle risotto steals the show. PHOTO COURTESY OF L'ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON PHOTO COURTESTY OF FLEUR

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