Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/391612
96 / the tasting panel / october 2014 The uptick is global. Rioja exports 370 million bottles—about 40 percent of its production—globally. In just five years, imports to the U.S. doubled from 550,000 to 1.1 million cases. Though Spaniards are drinking less, they're drinking better, Lecea says. "We are a country with a wine culture that consumes more high-end wines than the Germans and British." And that has caused producers to focus their efforts on the global market—with good success. Spain now surpasses Italy and France as the world's largest wine- producing country, and much of that is driven by Rioja, the country's oldest and best-known DOC (Rías Biaxas is the next largest Spanish wine region in exports). But this isn't about come-uppance. Wine officials here think a rising tide sails all ships; so as Rioja shines, so does the rest of Spain. "I think it is more important in terms of interest and the future for us to cooperate," says Lecea. "It is not easy to handle so many interests." But if anyone can handle it, it might be Lecea, the first grape grower to be appointed President of the board. Past heads wore business suits, not cov- eralls. When appointed last summer, he urged everyone to work together despite their differences. Bridging the Gap If there's anything "troubling" Rioja, it's how to bridge the gap between an Old World mindset and New World winemaking. And that means redefin- ing the wine for which Rioja has been known—a classic 19th-century, heavily oaked wine meant for extended aging. "We have the greatest wine at the greatest value, and now the added messaging includes wines that are ready to drink on release," Lecea says, indicating a shift in thinking that Rioja is not your grandfather's wine. Pablo Olay, Campaign Director for the region, agrees. "Eight or ten years ago, people knew Rioja but thought of it like an Old World region with nothing happening there," he says. "We wanted to get 'vibrant' out in front and reintroduce Rioja in a more lively and interesting way." Now that the region has renewed brand recognition, Olay says it's time to work on knowledge of the wines. "Spain has to do a better job having a better presence in the on-premise," he says. "We believe Rioja can do well by the glass and compete well with other quality regions." Younger, Fresher Wines Historically, Rioja reds were Tempranillo-based blends from three sub-regions, divided into left and right banks by the River Ebro: Rioja Alavesa in the north, Rioja Alta and Baja in the south. The winemaking focus was all about the aging—extended periods in American oak—and marked by three quality levels: Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. The 1991 introduction of Cosecha—a Guarantee of Origin without aging restrictions—freed winemakers to experiment and produce fresher, younger wines. It was as if classic Juan Antonio Leza is the Winemaker at Bodegas y Viñedos Gómez Cruzado. Cristina Alesano, Winemaker, Vinícola Riojana de Alcanadre, and Fernando Pérez, Commercial Director. TREND ALERT