The Tasting Panel magazine

Oct 09

Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/3815

Contents of this Issue

Navigation

Page 85 of 92

october 2009 / the tasting panel /  85 tion as the rest of Vancouver's culinary scene. "The food here is fresh—es- pecially seafood—and the wine industry has grown way beyond ice wine," he says. "Vancouver is spending a lot of money to promote what is going to hap- pen—longterm—after the Olym- pics. The hope is that post-Olym- pics, the city will continue to draw great culinary talents to take advantage of the artisanship that goes into our food and wine." Such a draw began before the Games, as some high-powered toques have already opened res- taurants in Vancouver, including Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who debuted Market by Jean-Georges in downtown's Shangri-La Hotel; and Daniel Boulud, who became a partner at Lumière and then opened DB Bistro Moderne right next door, making Vancouver's west side a growing culinary mecca. Both chefs have, natu- rally, embraced local wines for their lists. At the retail level, the provincial government's Liquor Distribution Branch is responsible for the importation, distribution, and retail sales of alcohol in British Columbia, and almost all of BC's booze is sold through government-owned outlets. But there are a few licenses granted to private businesses, like Liberty Wine Merchants, the largest chain of private wine stores in western Canada. With several locations throughout Vancou- ver, Liberty offers an exceptional selection of BC wines. According to wine buyer Darryl Lamb, demand for BC wines within Vancouver and the province is "ultra-high." "There is great loyalty for any BC product, including wines," says Lamb. "But the problem is that the average age for vines in BC is only about ten years, and they really don't start producing good, complex wines before 15 or 20 years. We've not tasted what BC is capable of yet." Emphasizing that the evolution of the industry is moving in the right direction, with wines getting better every year and produc- tion catching up to demand, Lamb expects to see prices coming down as quality rises. He also says that foreign investment is helping out too, such as with Okanagan Valley's 8th Gen- eration Vineyard (the previous seven genera- tions were in Germany). "They're a real wine family, not a banker living out his retirement dream," he says. Lamb echoes Pateman's observation that planting a wide variety of grapes is needed to discover what works best, which leads him to note that BC isn't producing consistently great Cabernet Sauvignon. "The growing season is just about a month too short for Cab. But there are some very nice cool-weather Syrahs. And I also think the future lies in German-style reds." For the crowds soon to descend upon Van- couver for the Olympics, Lamb says there are plenty of BC wines ready to surprise: "People are going to come and try some boutique wines and find that our Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc are phenomenal." As for exporting to the world market, espe- cially after the Games have left, Canada's Inter- national Trade Minister announced earlier this year the creation of a $1 million fund to help Canadian wineries cultivate export markets. Lamb says such a measure will help, but advises to remember that Canadian wines, espe- cially BC wines, are still young, with many first- generation vintners finding their way. "We will make a splash on the world stage," he says. "But it took 20 years before anyone knew that New Zealand was making wine. We're essentially at year 15. Talk to me in another five years." Eric Pateman, founder and Presi- dent of Edible British Columbia. There is great loyalty for any BC product, including wines. But the prob- lem is that the average age for vines in BC is only about ten years, and they really don't start producing good, complex wines before 15 or 20 years. We've not tast- ed what BC is capable of yet." —wine buyer Darryl Lamb

Articles in this issue

Archives of this issue

view archives of The Tasting Panel magazine - Oct 09