Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/3815
october 2009 / the tasting panel / 79 Staying Power: Holdren's W e first met Clay Holdren when his eponymous Santa Barbara State Street restaurant opened in June 2003. His second location soon followed in the bedroom community of Newbury Park, about 20 min- utes north of Los Angeles. If three's a charm, then Clay can make a bracelet, as Holdren's Goleta—a stone's throw north of Santa Barbara off Highway 101—opened this summer in the Camino Real Marketplace. Blessed with a plethora of space, Holdren came up with a brilliant idea: Why not open two restaurants on the property? With his beautifully appointed steakhouse on one side, his Italian concept, called Pastavino, became a reality on the other; the two restaurants share a single kitchen ("the line cooks try not to confuse things," Holdren quips) and are divided by a patio out front. Holdren's, at whichever location, offers uniquely pre- pared dishes—not just those juicy steaks! Although his establishments are patterned after Old New York, big city–style restaurants, Holdren brings in the California sunshine with his one Big Rule: If employees don't smile at the guests, they are out of a job. Stay Put: Union Ale I t's no secret that many restaurants have come and gone in the location on Lower State Street in Santa Barbara just recently oc- cupied by Union Ale. Owner Matthew Chrest- enson, a Santa Barbara native, uses the space well: An interior brightly lit by day and marked by earthy copper browns and wine barrels stacked along the high walls. At night, this wine-and-beer-licensed operation is packed with lovers of both beverages; according to Chrestenson, it was an instant hit from the day he opened in mid-August. He inherited an $85,000 sound system from the last resident, a short-lived nightclub, as well as a state-of-the-art kitchen with two temperature-con- trolled walk-in pantries. The menu certainly fits the bill: Flatbread pizza, burgers and salads accompany the ales and wines. Inspired by the Union Pacific railroad sign on the train tracks outside his doors, as well as the notion of merging beer brands from all locales, Chrestenson christened his pub Union Ale. Chrestenson packs 'em in with good food, atmo- sphere and intriguing libation. "Beer is a good call," he says, pleased with the attraction customers are showing for this exciting new spot. "Even wine lovers like to end up with a good, tall, cold glass of beer." Summerland Winemaker Etienne Terlinden spends time at the bar with Clay Holdren. This past summer, Mat- thew Chrestenson opened Union Ale, a brewhouse with an ale and hearty character. Alongside his line-up of imported beers is Summerland Chardon- nay, his house white. Holdren's: An Expanding— and Inviting─Empire "Being consistent is key," says Clay Holdren, whose third Holdren's Steak & Seafood recently opened in Go- leta, just north of Santa Barbara. "Each time someone comes in, they are assured a great meal." Holdren's goal is to have his namesake restaurant in at least seven more locations—and we're betting he gets his wish."Someone has to keep driving business or we'll never change this economy," he adds. "We're minutes away from the best wines in the world," says Clay Holdren of the much-lauded wines of the Central Coast. Here, Holdren's thick and juicy top sirloin is covered with a rosemary–bleu cheese reduc- tion sauce. Paired with it is Summerland 2006 Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon, a rustic red that speaks of Central Coast sun and soil, with abundant black fruit and soft tannins.