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what Ahvenainen is fond of calling cigar box. "It's about the smoothness and bringing for- ward the natural fruit in the wine," says Ahve- nainen, who contrasts the smokier character of the V.S.O.P. (Very Special Old Pale), as well as its more dominant cigar notes, to illustrate his point. Hints of Bosch pear and distinctive oak characteristics also serve to distinguish the V.S.O.P. from its siblings. "There's really more of a boldness to the V.S.O.P.," says Ahvenain- en. "Most of these products are consumed mixed, so we wanted to make something that would stand out more." Indeed, whereas many brandies will disap- pear in cola, for example, more discerning brandy drinkers may prefer to taste the mixer in addition to—not instead of—their brandy. On this point, however, Ahvenainen is cir- cumspect. "I prefer people to enjoy it however they choose to," he concedes. "Personally, at home, I'll drink it straight. I'm very simple guy. I'll put a splash of it in a cup of coffee or some tea or something. There are a lot of younger people getting into the whole mix- ability thing." Not one to shirk an emerging market, Ah- venainen created Korbel's XS (Extra Smooth), enhanced with premium vanilla, natural or- ange essence, spices and pure cane sugar and intended to be mixed or enjoyed on its own merits. "Traditionalism is a good thing, but you shouldn't be a slave to it," explains Ahve- nainen, who nonetheless remains conscious of the fact that he helms a program that has ex- isted within three of the seven centuries since brandy was fi rst popularized in the 1400s. When Paul Young, Heck Estates' Director of Marketing and Sales, tested Korbel XS with consumers, he was pleased with the results. "It surprises people, because they think of the Captain Morgans of the world as being a mix- able drink but not a true spirit. When they try the XS, their eyes kind of pop out because it's brandy, but with these other things. It's more of a serious drink," says Young, who also oversaw Korbel's new packaging efforts, which echo the classic design of the compa- ny's popular sparkling wines, creating better brand synergy between the products. "If you stand still, you get run over. You always have to be working on things," opines Ahvenainen, who remains one of a handful of distillers working in Sonoma wine country—a fact not lost on him. "Brandy is the essence of wine," observes Ahvenainen, who adds with a smile, "I don't understand why wine people wouldn't be comfortable with brandy." Korbel is part of the Heck Estates portfolio; www.korbelbrandy.com. Korbel's California brandies keep a long tradition alive by Daedalus Howell / photos by Ryan Lely Master Distiller Paul Ahvenainen inspects a glass of Korbel V.S.O.P. in front of the historic tower that once housed the distillery. october 2009 / the tasting panel / 61