The Tasting Panel magazine

Oct 09

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S econd-generation wine producer Judy Jordan, daughter of Tom Jordan of Alexander Valley's Jordan Winery, started her own J Vineyards & Winery back in 1986, focusing on Russian River fruit expressed in lovely brut and other sparkling wines. More recently the winery has begun to em- phasize its still wine pro- gram, which draws on the J's excellent sources of Bur- gundian varieties, including estate vineyards named for Judy's children. Unorthodox winemaker George Bursick, who first gained celebrity at Fer- rari-Carano, is the man behind J's upscale still wine program. He's aided and abetted by Vineyard Man- ager John Erbe, who knows Russian River vineyards like the toes of his boots. Pinot Noir is a strong suit at J these days, and the wines get better with every vintage. New labels help draw attention to these very remarkable offerings. Here are my notes on the recent releases. 88 2008 Pinot Gris, Russian River Valley ($20) Ripe and racy with crisp apple fruit and lively acidity; snappy, long and bal- anced with a fresh, tangy finish. 91 2007 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley ($28) Lovely and bright with juicy fruit, subtle, new oak and creamy texture; fruit-driven and elegant, bracing and lovely. 89 2007 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($35) Lovely depth and aromatics; extracted and spiced with black cherry and plum fruit; balanced, with earth complexity and rich texture. 90 2007 Pinot Noir, Nicole's Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($60) Gentle and lush with lovely red cherry and juicy acidity; long and elegant with depth and finesse. 91 2007 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($70) Smooth, rich and show- ing lovely cherry fruit, spice and tangy acidity; mellow, elegant and juicy. 92 2007 Pinot Noir, Robert Thomas Vine- yard, Russian River Valley ($65) Racy, fresh and Burgundian with grip and complex spice; crisp, pure and nicely structured; long, racy and showing lots of nerve. Burgundy on the Russian River J Vineyards & Winery's still wine program soars Winemaker George Bursick brings his touch to J Vineyards & Winery's still wines.

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