The Tasting Panel magazine

Oct 09

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It's not just about pairing wine with food," explains Robert Hartstein, Director of Service, whose beverage expertise and on-premise management skills led him to run the only hotel restaurant in Los Angeles with a Michelin star, The Dining Room at The Langham, Huntington Hotel & Spa, Pasadena. But the Michelin award isn't the only star connected to the landmark hotel's restaurant. Tattooed, 30-year-old Michael Voltaggio, who is appearing on this season's Top Chef, is its Chef de Cuisine. "We look at each dish for what it is and then bridge or contrast the dish accordingly," adds Hartstein, who is laying the foundation for what's to come in the kitchen. Under the leadership of Food & Beverage Director Chris Orta, and inspired by the creativity of Chef Voltaggio's New American cuisine, Hartstein is wont to more than toy with matching fare with beverage flair. One example: "We like to serve our pastrami pigeon dish with a dark artisan ale," he says. "It's a play on the traditional pastrami sandwich and beer, on a much higher level." Orta and Hartstein then lead us into The Bar, a luxurious and stately room—millwork, soffits and high ceilings—that conjures up images of the hotel's origins, a nod to the turn of the 20th century. Here, the focus is on housemade cocktails, blended with fresh, high- quality ingredients, from fruit to tea and savory herbs. The Dining Room and The Bar, each scheduled to undergo multi- million dollar renovations, as well as a name change for each venue, in early 2010, have become destinations for area residents in Pasadena's vicinity, as well as a choice—and somewhat secluded—spot for Angelenos, who can easily jump on the freeway if they wish to flee the confines of busy city life. As its ownership has passed from The Ritz-Carlton to the boutique-y Langham Hotels group, whose flagship property is in London, this grandiose hotel, nestled in a quiet neigh- borhood up against the towering San Gabriel Mountains, may just achieve that perfect bal- ance: modern meets classic Old World charm and cutting-edge hip. —Meridith May A lot on his plate: The Langham's Chef de Cui- sine, Michael Voltaggio. Whether it's an Earl Grey tea–inspired cocktail with Jim Beam bourbon or a "Date with Rye," which uses macerated dates with (rı)1 whiskey for an earthy tipple, The Bar at The Langham keeps 'em creative. PHOTO: COURTESY OF THE LANGHAM HOTEL " october 2009 / the tasting panel /  35

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