The Tasting Panel magazine

August 2014

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38  /  the tasting panel  /  august 2014 INTRO-VINOUS W ith a new winery planted in the heart of Cuvaison's estate vineyard in Carneros, Steve Rogstad is ramping up Pinot Noir production. "The program used to be less than 2,000 cases," he told THE TASTING PANEL on his recent visit to our Los Angeles office. "Now, we have 55 acres devoted to Pinot, and we'll be bottling 7,000 cases this year." Where the Mayacamas tumble through Carneros, the land—both hillside and flat—also grows the grapes that produce Cuvaison's super-premium Chardonnay. "With so much variation throughout the blocks, it takes six weeks to harvest," Rogstad notes. "Our Pinot Noir is grown in the heart of the hills," he says, "harvested in a ten-day stand and fermented open-top. We punch the cap down four to five times a day; it really helps extract that color." In addition to Cuvaison, the winery's Brandlin label is named for an old historic vineyard planted in 1928 on the southern section of Napa Valley's Mount Veeder AVA. The fruit for the estate-grown Brandlin 2011 Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon ($55 ) is rich, black and inky, but definitely fruit-focused, with chalky tannins. It's developed and broad—until it's not: a greediness sneaks in with exact- ing coffee, black fruit and dark bittersweet chocolate that won't linger long enough, forcing the next sip. "This is the result of the harsh environment that goes up over 1,100 feet in elevation," Rogstad explains. "Small berries with thick skins." Despite the elevation and the struggle, the vineyard's location is situated so that it provides more moderate temperatures than much of Napa Valley, and therefore, the fruit ripens slowly, with a later picking date, anywhere from late September to November. The Brandlin Ranch is composed of 38 acres of sustainably farmed Bordeaux varieties. Just released is Brandlin Mt. Veeder 2011 Henry's Keep ($98, ), a proprietary red honoring the property's founder, Henry Brandlin. Backed up by 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and a dollop of Petit Verdot and Malbec, this lush, satin-textured aromatic creature is all ink and iron—that is, until you get to the violets and roses. —Meridith May Where the Mountains Meet the Valley Steve Rogstad is Winemaker for Cuvaison and Brandlin. The fruit for the Cuvaison 2012 "Spire" Pinot Noir, Carneros ($48) is grown on the highest block of the estate vineyard. This Dijon 115 clone, single- block wine has a beautiful body: dense, drier tannins within a core of concentrated blackberry (some lots aged and fermented in puncheons for 16 months and some in concrete cubicle tanks, which brings out rounder, warmer tones than would stainless). MEET STEVE ROGSTAD, WINEMAKER, CUVAISON & BRANDLIN ($98, ), a proprietary red honoring the property's ($98, ), a proprietary red honoring the property's ($98, ), a proprietary red honoring the property's ($98, ), a proprietary red honoring the property's ($98, ), a proprietary red honoring the property's ($98, ), a proprietary red honoring the property's ($98, ), a proprietary red honoring the property's ($98, ), a proprietary red honoring the property's ($98, ), a proprietary red honoring the property's ($98, ), a proprietary red honoring the property's ($98, ), a proprietary red honoring the property's ($98, ), a proprietary red honoring the property's

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