Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/359372
august 2014 / the tasting panel / 105 the Californian microclimates, this is very important," he notes as he swirls Variation Four in his glass, thought- fully. "I spend a lot of time running up and down the state scouting out the fruit. Identifying various flavor profiles and presenting them in a way that celebrates these vineyards and by extension, Cabernet Sauvignon." This isn't the quest to create a single-vineyard wine, or just another "Cali Cab"; it's about showing what the individual vineyard sites are capable of when blended with another, perhaps very different, site. Without a doubt, when tasting the three manifestations of this project, one could forget that it is only Cabernet Sauvignon in the glass. (See our notes.) Just to add another lovely layer to this already multifaceted endeavor, the Variations wines, as is the case with all of the Herzog wines, are certified kosher. As Herzog explains, "'Kosher' refers to who makes the wine; from the crusher/ de-stemmer to bottling, the hands-on production of the wine must be carried out by Sabbath-observant Jews. And that's all it takes." This calls for a special relationship between Hurliman and his winemaking team, one based on trust and exceptional communication. In so many ways, this mirrors the philosophies at the core of the Variations project; bringing together contrasting elements, allowing them to acknowledge each other's strengths, and in doing so, create something that is bigger than the sum of its parts. And it works. Indeed, this year marks Hurliman's 16th harvest with the Herzog family, a subtle yet noteworthy marker of a con- tented winemaker. "To be able to get creative, to make a wine with a story, a wine that has something to say," he pauses, takes a breath and continues, "it gets you excited. It gives you chills." Variations Highlights: ■ "These wines will be dynamic from vintage to vintage," says Hurliman, "as we are not locked into a style or blend each year." ■ Aiming for finesse and elegance, Italian and Burgundy barrels are predominantly used for this Cabernet, rather than the stereo- typical Bordeaux barrels. ■ Limited production of 1,000 cases for each of the Variations. Tasting Notes Herzog Variations Three 2012 ($25) featuring Paso Robles, Napa Valley and Santa Ynez vineyard sites Homemade strawberry preserves, strawberry bubblegum, tart and fresh. This wine is lively, feminine, perfumed and elegant. Herzog Variations Four 2012 ($25) featuring Napa Valley, Paso Robles, Alexander Valley and Santa Ynez vineyard sites Pencil shavings, velvety and ripe notes of red currant and purple flowers, gripping dusty tannins, yet surprisingly light on its feet. Herzog Variations Five 2012 ($25) featuring Santa Ynez, Napa Valley, Alexander Valley, Paso Robles and Chalk Hill vineyard sites Masculine nose, full and structured mouthfeel, well inte- grated black fruits and an oak profile that is certainly showing, but not at all brutish.