The SOMM Journal

August/September 2014

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  85 WHITE Alexakis 2011 Athiri Thistle ($9) Pithy and pure, this over- achieving, racy, and herbal white—from a grape more com- monly associated with Santorini—shows laser-like focus, with aromas of grapefruit and wet stones. DIAMOND IMPORTERS Douloufakis 2011 Dafnios ($11) This flinty and elegant 100% Vidiano is full of both citrus and floral notes. Smooth and clean, it practically begs to be offered as a by-the-glass pour. DIAMOND IMPORTERS Lyrarakis 2011 Dafni ($18) A good introduction to Daphne's signature bay-laurel aromas, underscored by lovely citrus tones and minerality. STELLAR IMPORTING COMPANY Manousakis 2011 Nostos Roussanne ($24) Based on this creamy, nutty, and generously tropical example, Manousakis Winery's bet on Rhône varieties appears to be paying off. DIONYSOS IMPORTS, INC. RED Boutari 2009 Syrah-Kotsifali Skalani ($37) This bottling of equal parts Syrah and Kotsifali, blended after vinification, shows the promise of combining native and international varieties. Raspberry, dark cherry and pepper dominate the nose; the mouthfeel is meaty and well rounded. TERLATO WINES Diamantakis Winery 2008 Diamond Rock ($22) Diamantakis's international-style blend of 70% Syrah and 30% Mandilari is pining for a steak to complement its notes of vanilla, leather, and spices. The blueberry, blackberry and plum fruits are concentrated, and the tannins almost as chewy as bubble gum, but the ample acidity wraps it all up in a well-balanced package. SONATA WINE LLC Lyrarakis 2008 Mandilari Plakoura Vineyard ($25) This 100% Mandilari is almost Nebbiolo-like, from the leathery, dark fruit to the aged-liqueur and balsamic notes. With its dried-herb aromas and acidity, it would make an interesting alternative for pairing with roast meats. STELLAR IMPORTING COMPANY Manousakis 2008 Nostos Syrah ($24) Instantly identifiable as sleek, modern Syrah, the Nostos offers concentrated berry fruit, peppery spices, and dried herbs on the nose, followed by chewy, dusty tannins almost reminiscent of Washington bottlings. It finishes ripe and silky, with balsamic notes. DIONYSOS IMPORTS, INC. DESSERT Boutari NV Iouliatiko ($100) Packaged in a squat, whiskey- style bottle, this wine is made from red Liatiko grapes that are dried in the sun for about ten days. The result is one of Crete's best sweet wines, with notes of rum-raisin, caramel, toast and dried fig carrying through to a long, luxurious finish. TERLATO WINES Douloufakis 2005 Helios ($19/500 ml.) Fresh figs, sultanas, plums, and spices mark this red dessert wine made from the Daphne grape. Rum and caramel notes round out a pleas- antly exotic drinking experience. DIAMOND IMPORTERS OUTSTANDING RECENT RELEASES rete's Fine-Wine Future It would take a Delphic oracle to predict the suc- cess of the gamble being undertaken by Crete's more progressive producers. Few wine-producing regions would cur- rently wish to trade places with Crete, given its shaky economy and the promotional challenges it faces on the export market. History suggests, however, that we would be mistaken to count out the island's wine industry—which has endured over 4,500 years, reinventing itself in the wake of successive rulers, count - less conflicts, recessions and phylloxera. Problems such as how best to market hard-to-pronounce grape varieties to the outside world seem almost trivial by comparison. In the words of Ted Manousakis's daughter Alexandra, who manages the Nostos label, "If wine lovers can learn to say 'Gewürztraminer,' they can learn to say 'Vidiano'!" The Diamantakis wines sport English labels for the U.S. market.

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