Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/348953
A TOUR OF THE REGION'S GREAT ESTATES NETS INDELIBLE MEMORIES—AND MANY BOTTLES FOR THE CELLAR by Steven Spurrier what Beaune is to Burgundy) boasting a 19th-century panelled dining room and a wine list only a little less encyclopae- dic than that of the Michelin three-star Auberge de L'Ill. Before dinner that evening the Comité Interprofessionel des Vins d'Alsace presented a tasting of ten grand cru Rieslings from producers we would not be visiting, my favourites being: Steinklotz (the most northern of the 51 grands crus) 2012 Arthur Metz, Schlossberg 2012 Arthur Mann, Brand 2011 Albert Boxler and Eichberg 2010 Domaine Zinck that confirmed again 2010's great quality. The following morning saw us at Zind- Humbrecht in Turkheim, one of only three (the others being Domaine Weinbach and Marcel Deiss, also visited) estates to gain the full five stars in the influen - tial French Bettane & Dessauve guide. Leonard Humbrecht was one of the first domaines to convert to Biodymanisme (all those we visited are "en bio") and his son Olivier was France's first Master of Wine. From 40 hectares on myriad soils and exposures, their range of wines is a roller-coaster with only highs. They are very proud of the "classic" 2012 vintage and my top notes, apart from a delicious Muscat Goldert 2011, went to Riesling Clos Urbain Rangen de Thann (Alsace's most southern grand cru), Pinot Gris Clos Urbain Rangen de Thann and Gewurztraminer Hengst. These 2012s, like many of the Zind-Humbrecht wines, will become collectors' items. Then it was off to Josmeyer in Wintzenheim, one of my very favourite producers for the lifted purity and light texture of their wines. Their Pinot Blanc Mise du Printemps 2013 had an unbeat - able deliciousness, the Riesling Le Kottabe 2011 showed restrained florality, the Riesling Hengst (a grand cru on lime- stone soil) 2011 had beautiful structure and clarity for keeping, while the Pinot Gris Brand 2008 seduced with its Turkish delight exoticism and richness. A light lunch in the cellar courtyard showed how well these wines go with food. Sufficiently refreshed, the afternoon visit was to Leon Beyer in nearby Eguisheim, champion of the very dry style of Alsace wines, described in French as nerveux, with great potential for ageing. We tasted three 2007s—Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer—under their prestige label Comtes d'Eguisheim, mostly from the Grand Cru Eichberg, before a still vigourous Gewurztraminer 1975, before ending on the nectar-like richness of Riesling Vendange Tardive 1995, Gewurztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles 1998 and Pinot Gris SGN Quintessence 1994. No trip to Alsace is complete without a visit to Hugel (founded 1639 in Riquewihr) and Trimbach (founded 1626 in neigh -