Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/314991
60 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2014 LAST JUNE AT RESTAURANT MARC FORGIONE, eleven specialists, including sommeliers from New York City's top restaurants and other industry experts, joined me for one of the most comprehensive tastings held in the United States of one of the most highly esteemed—and controversial—vineyards in France: Nicolas Joly's Coulée de Serrant in Savennières, where the holy grail of Chenin Blanc is made. In a blind tasting, our panel of 12 (see side- bar) evaluated 15 vintages of Coulée de Serrant, span- ning four decades. All of the wines were sourced directly from the Joly family cellar and shipped direct. The wines were served by resident sommelier Michael Noah. Coulée de Serrant is a small hill of deep brown slate looking over the lazy Loire River; solely planted to Chenin, it has an AOC of its own. Cistercian monks first planted vines here in 1130 and it has been farmed continuously since. Coulée de Serrant repre- sents 17 of the total 360 acres in Savannières and is one of France's three true monopoles, in which a single family owns the entire AOC. Purchased by the Joly family in 1962, it remains in their control, with Virginie Joly farming the land alongside her father, Drinking from the Holy Grail of Chenin AN INCONSISTENT COULÉE DE SERRANT VERTICAL TASTING SPARKS CONTROVERSY by Matthew Conway PHOTO: ERICA GANNETT Author Matthew Conway is General Manager–Beverage Director at Marc Forgione. Somm Journal June/July.indd 60 5/9/14 12:10 PM