Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/31323
COVER STORY visitors to walk through the blank doorway of this picture frame and take a path that will give them a different perspective of Napa Valley. Eventually, this path will take them past our vines, our gardens, an orchard of fruits from pear to pomegranate, farm animals, beehives and bat hotels. They will go from pole to pole of pleasure—finding new identities in themselves, and new tastes, smells and textures.” Boisset has already transformed a working winery room to the right of Raymond’s entrance into another kind of visitor center: nightclub-dark, lit by pink lights and more than a hundred glistening candles, pulsating contem- porary music, Baccarat decanters, crystal counters, a see-through table seating 80 and mannequins posed in approximations of performance art against a backdrop of steel fermenters, oak barrels and—lest that be forgot- ten—an energetic tasting room staff. “We call this our Crystal Cellar,” says Boisset, “something I’ve always wanted to do in a winery, but could never try back home in France. The idea is to present a world of illusion, dreams and reality, where people can discover something new in themselves and become open to new sensations. They can taste from bottles or from barrels, and experience wine in a way they have never experienced it before. It may all sound crazy, but it is already working: We have doubled our sales out the door.” A Transformation Therein lies the Boisset agenda: visible transformation inside and out, without disrupting the established core—a bold, imaginative enhancement of nature. Reclining in the parlor of Raymond’s refurbished guesthouse, Jean-Charles shares some thoughts on the progress of this transformation, which has occupied most of his energy during the past year and a half. “One of the ultimate dreams for us was to have a winery in Napa Valley. I had come to know the Raymonds well, and as long ago as 2004 I had suggested that we go into business together by forming our own distribu- tion company. That did not happen, but in 2007 Roy and Walter were looking to retire and the opportunity came up to acquire the winery from Kirin, who had 60 / the tasting panel / may 201 1 Raymond Winemaker Stephanie Putnam. become the parent company when the Raymonds sold in 1989. “Luckily, because of our friendship, we had the inside track and we were able to put the deal together for the entire estate, which included this prop- erty in Rutherford around the winery, the Stice Vineyard across the street in St. Helena [the dividing line between the Rutherford and St. Helena AVAs is at Zinfandel Lane] and vineyards in Jameson Canyon at the entrance of Napa Valley—a total of about 300 acres. That is how we became custodians of this incredible heritage, this classic all-American brand, which was started by a family who really were among the pioneers in Napa Valley. “Although for our first crush in 2009 we had the help of Walter and his assis- tant winemaker Kathy George, who has stayed on with us, we also brought on Philippe Melka on September 4, 2009 because, honestly, I didn’t have a clue about making Cabernet Sauvignon. Put me in a cellar full of Pinot Noir, and I can do fine. But from the beginning, it’s been our goal to do something really special—to articulate a new style of Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa Valley and take things to another level of finesse and elegance. “In February 2010, we brought on Stephanie Putnam as our Director of Winemaking, who came to us after eight successful years as the winemaker for Far Niente. So between Stephanie and Philippe, we know we have a team who really knows how to craft Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. I strongly believe that Raymond has the potential to really stand out and do something phenomenal—especially with Cabernet Sauvignon. “We were able to make significant PHOTO: COURTESY OF RAYMOND VINEYARD