The Tasting Panel magazine

May 2011

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same grape, every single Tempranillo is different from any other because of the weather and so forth.” But in her opinion, “The most delicious Tempranillo that you can find is from Rioja.” Frontaura y Victoria, which has been in busi- ness since the 16th century, doesn’t let its prov- enance as an Old World producer stand in the way of progress. Like many other producers in Spain, Frontaura is also proffering a 100 percent tempranillo wine which is packaged in hip violet hues and has a name simultaneously reminiscent of science fiction and a Henry Miller novel. The presentation of “Nexus,” Brand Manager Diego Pinedo proudly admits, is specifically designed to appeal to the younger, American market. “The wine has to speak for itself; the packag- ing is just an accessory. But it’s especially sexy, feminine wine, so the packaging should catch your eye.” An elegant wine aged for 12 months in new French oak casks, the 2005 vintage is particularly elegant wine with subtle notes of coffee bean and a lush mouthfeel, something one might not expect from Tempranillo, given its characteristically leathery quality. “In our winery, we don’t blend grapes; we only grow either 100 percent Tempranillo or 100 percent Tinta de Toro,” explained Pinedo, who attributes his wines’ soft character to aging. “We don’t grow the same way you grow here; when you’re only producing Tempranillo, the only way you know what to appreciate is by its time in oak, and that has to be said on the label,” explains Pinedo, referring to Spanish regula- tions for labeling wines with the length of their aging—in this case crianza, or 12 months. “When you see a crianza on the shelf, you know the kind of wine you’re going to drink; you’re going to drink something light, something not very long in the mouth, some- thing very fresh,” says Pinedo, who has been impressed with American wine savvy. “I’ve been here really for three years, touring and traveling. I live in New York and it’s very nice to see how open the public is to new wines, to new grapes. At the same time, we have to educate the market as well. In 20 years, someone will thank us for that,” he adds with a laugh. “We are now doing the hard part—we’re here.” Educating the consumer is par for the course in the wine trade, an aspect Eva Pardines, Export Manager of Dominio de La Vega, has enjoyed while showcasing her company’s bubbly. “For any product you must to educate people, so it takes a time but I think it makes sense when you want the people to appreciate your product you must explain everything you know,” says Pardines, who says we should expect to see cava begin to displace other sparkling wines in our bottle shops. “It’s very competitive and it could be compared to some champagnes for the same price and still have better quality.” So, take that France. San Francisco’s Bently Reserve hosted the West Coast iteration of the Spanish Wine Cellar & Pantry. Eva Pardines, Export Manager of Dominio de La Vega, believes the presence of cava in the U.S. market will increase as consumers become acquainted with its value relative to price. Frontaura Brand Manager Diego Pinedo pours a 2006 Domino de Valdelacasa for Spanish wine enthusiasts. may 201 1 / the tasting panel / 109

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