Red River's endearing
charm makes it an ideal
family destination, and it
was perfect for someone
like me, back on the moun-
tain aer a several-year
lapse.. Expert skiers will
find enough challenging
runs to keep them busy for
a weekend, and there's oo-
dles of beginning and in-
termediate terrain for those
still learning; ski school
staff is patient and helpful.
When nature doesn't supply
enough snow, snowmaking
machines work overtime to
ensure the groomed runs
stay amply covered.
A fun evening outing
is the "Snow Coach" to the
over-10,000-foot summit
restaurant. Chef Kai Dunbar at the Ski Tip will expertly prepare
dinner for your group (dietary restrictions happily accommo-
dated), escort you back to your chariot, then race down on skis
with a headlamp to greet you on your return. Descending in the
dark and finishing with a 360° snowcat turn is a thrill.
It's difficult to bid adieu to this sweet village and friendly
people, but returning to Sante Fe through Taos brings additional
delights. e artsy town has its own unique culture (don't miss
the Taos Pueblo) and is steeped in the mystical and spiritual. Time
permitting, you may also want to head out over the Rio Grande
Gorge to check out the Earthship sustainable community.
e town of Taos is about 30 minutes from the ski hill, how-
ever, so if you plan to be schussing, try to book at Taos Ski Valley.
e ski area is the state's largest by far, with a wide variety of ter-
rain and enough black diamond runs to please the most aggres-
sive skier. ere's also plenty of glade skiing for those inclined to
hike up and "earn their turns," but don't let that scare you away
if you prefer greens and
blues. Locals love to talk
about newcomers so daunt-
ed at the sight of the steep
lower mountain that they'd
turn right around and leave.
Now there's a sign, updated
to reflect the mountain's
expansion, announcing:
"Don't panic, you're look-
ing at only 1/30 of Taos Ski
Valley. We have many easy
runs, too." But easy is rela-
tive and I was glad I'd had
a warm-up for their more
challenging terrain.
ere are plenty of din-
ing options in the village,
and the deck at the Bavari-
an Lodge (which also offers
luxury suites) is a favorite
ski-in destination for lunch.
Or take a shuttle up for a cozy dinner; in this cold climate the
classic Bavarian menu is a hit with hearty eaters. Vegetarian
choices are limited to spaetzle (homemade Bavarian pasta) and
appetizers, but the hewn log building, Alpen ambiance and fresh
apple strudel make it worth a visit. Servers wear lederhosen and
dirndls and admirably recreate the ambiance of the restaurant's
namesake, and in another classic example of New Mexican di-
versity, owners omas Schulze was German-born, while his
wife Jamie has Native American roots.
As the sky turns crimson at the end of an exhilarating day on
the mountain, or when you're ready to wind down aer a satisfy-
ing dinner, don't be surprised to find yourself gravitating to com-
fort and conversation—along with a glass of local cra beer, or
wine from a New Mexican vineyard—around the brass fireplace
at the St. Bernard. But you probably won't see Jean Mayer there.
Having served dinner to his guests, his workday is finally over.
Auslander Condominiums, www.auslandercondominiums.com
Bavarian Lodge, www.thebavarian.net
Blue Corn, www.bluecorncafe.com
Hotel Sante Fe, www.hotelsantafe.com
Hotel St. Bernard, www.stbernardtaos.com
Il Piatto, www.ilpiattosantafe.com
Red River Ski Area, www.redriverskiarea.com
Rosewood Inn at the Anasazi, www.rosewoodhotels.com/anasazi
Sage Inn, www.santafesageinn.com
Ski Santa Fe, www.skisantafe.com/
Taos Ski Valley, www.taosskivalley.com/
photo:
Denny
Judycki
22 wholelifetimesmagazine.com
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