The Tasting Panel magazine

Aug 09

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I n June, THE TASTING PANEL met at DiVino restaurant in Los Angeles with Michele Bernetti, Co-Director of Italian wine producer Umani Ronchi, and Mario Belardino, President of Umani Ronchi's American importer, Bedford International. Both men are gracious, but most of all very passionate about good food, great wine and heartfelt company. With vineyards in the Verdicchio Classico and Rosso Conero DOCs, as well as in addi- tional areas in Le Marche and Abruzzo, family-owned Umani Ronchi was founded in 1957 and later expanded to prominence under Director Massimo Bernetti, who was joined in management by his son Michele in 1990. "There are many good wines out there," Belardino said, "but to really pull it off you have to have the number-one priority: the human factor. I believe both Michele and I are so successful because we believe in and possess il fattore umano." We tasted a range of Umani Ronchi wines: the 2007 Verdicchio Exclamation, 2005 Verdicchio Casal di Serra, 2006 Montepulciano dʼAbruzzo Jorio, 2003 Rosso Conero San Lorenzo and 2005 Rosso Conero Riserva Cumaro—all lovely expres- sions of their type, with suggested retail prices between $9.99 and $42.99. —Cathy Twigg-Blumel E xpect a new kid on the block from an old hand when Gary Sitton introduces his 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Reserve this fall, his first harvest-to-bottle vintage after taking over as Winemaker at Blackstone in 2006. The Reserve tier already offers a Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot and a signature red blend called Rubric. The addition of the Cab, says Sitton, rounds out the Sonoma Reserve tier. Sitton handpicked the vineyards from which the grapes are sourced. The Cab is sourced from Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma Coast and Knight's Valley, and those preferences reflect Sitton's desire to work directly with growers and produce wines that are "varietally correct" without regard to ratings, trends and shifting consumer preferences. The Reserve wines range from SRP $17.99 to $22.99, and says Sitton, "Without trying to be boastful, I think they stand up to wines that are twice the price." The Reserves represent 7 to 8 percent of Blackstone's total production, and Sitton plans to remain conservative to maintain quality and value. He acknowledges a certain risk in launching a full line in uncertain times, but for now, the new wines are supported by Blackstone's overall health, especially in categories such as $10 reds, the sales of which are up 5 to 6 percent. Sitton is relying on unusual offerings such as the pro- prietary blend Rubric (55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Malbec, 8% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, 7% Tannat, 5% Merlot and 3% Petite Sirah) to keep interest in the new Reserves strong. —Lana Bortolot The Message Blackstone Adds to its Sonoma Reserve Portfolio Umani Ronchi in Los Angeles PHOTO: LANA BORTOLOT 16 / the tasting panel / august 2009 Michele Bernetti, owner of Italian wine producer Umani Ronchi, and Mario Belardino, President of Umani Ronchi's American importer, Bedford International. The wines of Umani Ronchi. PHOTOS: CATHY TWIGG-BLUMEL

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