The Tasting Panel magazine

September 2010

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SPECIAL REPORT: TALES 2010 Joel Clark: St. Louis, MO Current Bar: Pi Restaurant. It’s a gourmet pizza place, and the owners allowed us to build a crafted cocktail program around that. Favorite seminars: “Prohibition & Gin” led by Dave Wondrich and Simon Ford; “The Science of Stirring,” led by Eben Klemm, Thomas Waugh and Dave Arnold; and “Hollywood Cocktails: Louisiana Style” led by William T. Garver, Ted Haigh, Alan Leonhard and Cheryl Charming. Best tasting room: Diageo on Thursday. They were making Manhattans with Carpano Antica vermouth, which is something I can’t get in St. Louis. Latest loves: I’ve been on a brandy kick. I also love Thatcher’s, which is a line of organic liqueurs. Trends of Tales: The Bitter Truth Celery Bitters winning Best New Product at the Spirit Awards was evidence that the bitters movement is massive. Overall, my impression is that bar culture is becoming more cohesive. I think we will see a change in the American palate thanks to this. On each coast, you now expect your drink to take more than 30 seconds to make. Guests aren’t there yet in St. Louis, but we’re working on it! Taking Home: An interest in star anise. I don’t currently carry Ricard. Since Tales, I’m adding it. Mindy Kucan: Houston TX You can fi nd Mindy Kucan behind the stick at Anvil Bar & Refuge, recognized nationally as one of the South’s best cocktail bars. Current bar: Anvil Bar & Refuge. Top moments: I had a random sit-down with Eben Klemm [Director of Cocktail Development for B.R. Guest Restaurants/James Hotels]. We were at Cure, when Rhiannon Enlil was bartending, and it was great to have a drink with him and discuss shaking techniques. That’s what’s amazing about Tales. I would have never had that opportunity otherwise. Class action: The whisky blending class with Yamazaki, led by Gardner Dunn, was fantastic. We got to put on lab coats and blend our own whisky. Hibiki is a blend of about 40 different varieties. We got to taste nine of those—including a Japanese oak–style barrel and one that was aged in sherry. They had us write our own blend recipe down. We gave our email addresses, and once they blend and vote, the best will receive a signed bottle of his or her blend. Latest loves: I’m playing with a lot of mezcals and also amaro. I have Mindy Kucan of Anvil Bar & Refuge. what I call my 50/50 shot at Anvil. It’s Fernet Branca Menta and Campari in equal proportions. We are also doing a cacao nib–infused rye that I adore. Trends of Tales: As far as marketing goes, in previous years it seemed to be t-shirts; now brands are marketing with everything from sun- glasses to beach balls. I went to the Plymouth gin Bartenders Breakfast, and it was fun to see Willy Shine and Aisha Sharpe hosting a Gin & Tonic bar with four variations of the gin and tonic. I think that shows we are trending back to basics a bit. Taking home: Swizzles. The brands I did taste, I will use more in swizzles and Tiki-style drinks. Like Paula’s Texas Spirits—there’s an orange and a lemon version that sing in swizzles. I have also grown to love Absinthe Frappé. From Slackers to Suits THE ROLE OF THE BARTENDER IS BECOMING INCREASINGLY PROFESSIONAL by Camper English / photos by Jenn Farrington U ntil recently, bartending was for slackers, something you did on the side while working on a “real” career—say, rock star or soap opera stud—or while fi nishing that long, drawn-out college degree and living in your parents’ basement. But in a recent shift brought about by the quality cocktail trend, bartending is now a prerequisite for profes- sional beverage industry careers: bar propri- etor, brand owner, consultant, recipe developer, brand ambassador and, well, television guest. This year at Tales, a slew of seminars were angled towards helping workaday bartenders transition into these specialized professions. Philip Du≠ was one of the guest speakers. Media Savvy A trio of seminars addressed dealing with the media. Angus Winchester (Brand Ambassador for Tanqueray gin) and Phillip Duff (currently consulting for G’Vine) began Tales with “How to Give Great Presentations,” based on their years of experience doing just that. Keep text on slides brief and use open and active body language to keep the audience’s attention, they advised. september 2010 / the tasting panel / 91

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