Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/16170
The Lodi Terroir Moderate Climate The intrinsic power and intensity of Lodi’s wines are very much a reflection of the AVA’s low elevation (0 to 100 feet) terroir—starting with its Mediterranean climate, strongly influenced by direct proximity to the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, drawing cool air from San Francisco Bay even during the dog days of summer. Recent readings put Lodi’s U.C. Davis climate classification (a measurement of average temperatures over 50° during the growing season) well within Region III—slightly cooler than the Napa Valley floor between St. Helena and Calistoga, and closer to the classic Oakville and Rutherford AVAs in heat summation. Ideal Soil and Matching Grape Sites Unlike Oakville and Rutherford, of course, Lodi is less about Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and for two good reasons: Its deep (8–30 feet), fertile yet extremely well-drained, sandy alluvial soil (classified as Tokay Fine Sandy Loam), and the dominating presence of old-vine Zinfandel, with lesser amounts of Petite Sirah and Carignane, in the AVA. For many decades, ample rain and adequate soil moisture retention have allowed for successful dry farming in Lodi; although in practice today, vines are watered through furrow or drip irrigation when necessary. On a normal basis, Lodi’s old vine plantings have remained healthy and productive, thriving in this balanced, natural ecosystem for well over a hundred years. Ungrafted Vines When they say old vine in Lodi, they do not mean any ol’ old vines. These porous, sandy soils have always been inhospitable to the infamous phyllox- era that wreaked havoc elsewhere around the world at the end of the 19th century. This explains why at least 5,000 of Lodi’s 42,000 planted acres still sit on their own rootstocks—one of the largest collections of ungrafted Vitis vinifera remaining in the world. Age Before Beauty At least a quarter of Lodi’s plantings went into the ground over 40 years ago, some of the most significant sites dating back to the 1880s (Jesse’s Grove’s estate), 1901 (Mohr-Fry Ranch’s Marian’s block), 1915 (Klinker Brick’s Old Ghost), 1916 (Soucie Vineyard), plus numerous other highly productive vineyards planted from the 1920s to the 1940s. These are, of course, largely gnarly, free-standing, head-trained vines, yielding less than one or two tons per acre, and everyone knows what deep-rooted old vines can produce: the type of reds that Zinfandel, as well as Syrah and Petite Sirah, lovers love most, with colors black as night and flavors that are ultra-rich yet finely balanced, even at high-octane tannin and alcohol levels. Fine wine quality always comes down to terroir. “The recent surge in ‘Lodi consciousness’ has been driven by the intrinsic quality of the region’s grapes.” september 2010 / the tasting panel / 37 PHOTO: RANDY CAPAROSO PHO