Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/1504732
THE ARTISAN FALL 2023 • 37 sideburns. To transform Yul Yazquez into Bernard Barker, we had to rework his thick head of hair into a comb over. Steven Lawrence, our talented make-up third, created a bald cap that he applied and altered to prevent perspiration in the summer heat. e inside of the cap was painted with red PAX paint, two holes were cut in the back and secured to prevent ripping, as well as additional tiny holes on the top to alleviate heat and moisture. e cap was then colored with PAX and different tones were stippled to represent discolorations, age spots and sun damage. A combover wig was put on top. One of the highlights of this project was transforming Kathleen Turner into Dita Beard. I designed a beauty & character make- up to match the archived looks from newspaper images. Viseart Neutral Matte eyeshadows, MAC "Dervish" lipliner and Ben Nye "Peachy Keen" or Besame "Chocolate Kiss" lipsticks were staples. To simulate illness, I stippled Skin Illustrator Glazing Gel "Character 1." To turn Domhnall Gleeson into John Dean, Michelle tinted his lashes darker, tanned his skin and re-shaped his sideburns longer than images found, to match his longer face. For Mo Dean, Michelle heavily tanned DeLaney Westfall, created thin rounded brows and added individual lashes to match Mo's stylish look. For both, Dr. Hauschka Translucent Bronzing Tint added the perfect reddish tan tone. e "Bay of Pigs" scene was filmed with an infrared camera and make-up with a red base either completely disappeared or turned milky-white. We conducted make-up tests fabricating blood (the winner was Bosco chocolate syrup mixed with Make Up For Ever Dust Grease) and different dirt types (powders/alcohol pigments) which were applied on multiple soldiers. Transforming thousands of background actors in three different states was quite a process, especially during COVID. Nicky Pattison Illum and Jenn Blum were an asset to the make-up team and ran background in NY. ey maintained and cataloged 90 sets of sideburns and 150 mustaches. Every day they were all washed, dried, trimmed and curled with 2mm/4mm curling irons. Application involved shaving facial hair, cleaning skin and gluing pieces down. Loose hair and Afro hair was cut, hand-applied/glued to actors for accurate '70s shapes. We had period-appropriate lip palettes for women. Hundreds of tattoos were covered using alcohol-based cream make-up, coloring- correcting, flecking, painting skin like finishes, and sealing to last 12 to 14 hours. Alexis Arenas assisted Jenn Blum in DC and Maurine Burke supervised background in LA. is project was one of the most challenging jobs of my career, and we are so proud of what we've accomplished. Deepest gratitude to the incredible make-up team and more than 100 Local 798 and Local 706 make-up artists who came to work with us in three different states. • Justin Theroux