CDG - The Costume Designer

Photo: Kelly Serfoss P P Emmy season is upon us and with all that's going on in the world, it's nice to have a distraction and celebrate our art. This year's group of nominees shows the diversi- ty of talent in costume design. We also need to acknowl- edge the assistant costume designers, the costume illus- trators, and costume departments that are essential in helping create the magic we see on screen. The marketing and merchandising of our costume de- signs are growing. Sadly, it's rare that the studios involve the costume designers in these projects. Without our input, they are watered down without the authenticity of our designs. There have been several collections out recently without the costume designers' input and they haven't been successful. When Janie Bryant designed the Mad Men collection for Banana Republic, it was a huge hit. We have seen collections by Mandi Line, for Pretty Little Liars, Lyn Paolo for Scandal, Trish Summer- ville for The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo, Arianne Phillips for Kingsman, and my own coat and jewelry lines in- spired by The Mindy Project. The studios need to under- stand they are missing an amazing opportunity. Disney released Cruella, a fi lm ripe with possibilities for cross promotion. Had they gotten Jenny Beaven to help with the merchandising, it would have been very profi t- able for everyone. As we continue to fi ght for a seat at the table, we hope the studios see the value in our par- ticipation and work with us. Our design has always been "work for hire." It was a paragraph in our contracts. Now we see four and fi ve pages of contract language that the studios own the rights to our designs "in the known and unknown uni- verse," in perpetuity in all forms that exist now or will be created in the future! This is an uphill battle, but we need to stay united in our eff orts, and continue to make our voices heard. It only takes one studio to see the benefi ts of having us involved, and the rest of the studios will fol- low that lead. We interview several new ACDs in the magazine. As a working costume designer, a good ACD is a valuable as- set. I had a great working relationship with Glinda Su- arez. I met her as a day player on a fi lm and then brought her on to be Mindy Kaling's costumer on The Mindy Proj- ect. When that show ended, Glinda became my ACD on the fi rst two seasons of Never Have I Ever and the fi rst season of The Sex Lives of College Girls. I was glad to be able to have her take over as costume designer on the show when I had to leave early. She has now designed the last two seasons of Never Have I Ever. As much as I miss having her as my assistant, I'm so proud to have been able to help her launch her career as a costume designer. We recently lost the incomparable May Routh. I met May when I fi rst joined the union. She was always so support- ive of new members. She always had a kind word and greeted you with her beautiful smile. She spent the last few years passing on her knowledge of costume design to the next generation. I will miss the warmth and love she showed to us all. The CDG has lost a legend. S vad P ez In solidarity, Salvador Perez sperez@cdgia.com 7

• Cover