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26 • THE ARTISAN SUMMER 2022 character recreations like Jay Leno, Bob Guccione, Dick Gauthier, TLC, Mötley Crüe, and more. When I started the process, Lily James was still in London finishing another project. We had all of our initial design conversations over the phone and through email. We briefly discussed the option of using her own hair but knowing the demands of the production schedule and how many looks we needed to recreate, I suggested that we use a series of custom wigs. This allowed me to prep multiple looks ahead of time, but it also protected Lily's hair from the extensive coloring that would be necessary to achieve such a high-level blonde. Pam was known for her bright, reflective platinum blonde hair. It was extremely important to get the color right. In my research, I came across interviews where Pam revealed she's been coloring her own hair for years. She mostly used drug-store box color, so I explored a variety of brands to compare and contrast levels with the virgin blonde hair I intended to use for Lily's wigs. I worked closely with my wigmaker Rob Pickens of Wigmaker Associates in Beverly Hills, and ultimately chose a blend of four different shades of European blonde hair. Pam always had the perfect, ultra textured, long-layer haircut with a dreamy curtain bang. It's a versatile cut that can be styled in a variety of ways. The layers helped to support the voluminous, supermodel curls for Barb Wire, while enhancing and defining the texture for Pam's classic Baywatch look. For reference, I went through old TIGI lookbooks with my Assistant Department Head, Erica Adams. She had a number of books from her days of doing platform education for the company. Together, we decided to use the Natural Inversion technique to create the base cut for all of Lily's wigs. One of the more defining features of Pam, in comparison to Lily, is her forehead and hairline. Once the make-up team decided to use a prosthetic forehead to alter the structure and form of Lily's face, I knew I would be able to accurately recreate Pam's hairline on all her wigs. With Lily's hairline completely covered, I could place the wig behind Lily's natural hairline, which provided the perfect distance between the brow bone and the hairline of the wig. An in-depth photo analysis of Pam's hairline over the years, gave my wigmaker the perfect references to recreate the hairline accurately. It was a major factor in the transformation and we couldn't have done it without that key prosthetic appliance. Lily's performance was inspired on many levels, but what stood out to me was her ability to act with her hair. I've wigged a lot of amazing actors over the years, but not everyone is able to incorporate a wig into their performance in a way that the audience forgets the actor is wearing it. Lily was so in touch with her wigs and really made them come to life. Together, we used her hair/wig in key emotional moments to help tell the story. Whether she was protecting herself with a huge mane of voluminous curls to portray strength and confidence, or revealing her softer side with an effortless top knot and scrunchie for intimate moments with Tommy at home, we utilized her hair whenever possible, which ultimately made it feel very natural. In order to achieve Tommy Lee's classic '90s grunge look, we needed to modify Sebastian Stan's natural texture. He went to Harper Salon on Melrose, where stylist Nikki Pittam performed a Brazilian Smoothing Treatment every 6-8 weeks. This kept his cuticle smooth and his texture manageable throughout our long production schedule. Sebastian's on-set hair stylist, Erica Adams, and I worked together to recreate Tommy Lee's color. In order to achieve such a low-level color that wouldn't be flat or matte on camera, we decided to use Redken Shades EQ for maximum shine and color translucency. The result was a perfect, dimensional color that reflected the light beautifully. Product balance and styling were crucial factors in achieving Tommy Lee's effortless, carefree look. It needed to appear ultra-natural, almost like he had been running his fingers through his hair all day, so there needed to be minimal product. We ultimately found a great balance with several lightweight styling products from Reuzel and Carol's Daughter. Those products, combined with finger-guided blowouts and HAIR Continued from page 23