The Tasting Panel magazine

August 2010

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A s little as five years ago, cachaça, the Brazilian sugarcane spirit, was barely recognizable as a cat- egory in the United States. These days, however, new sparks of interest in this little-known and exotic spirit are about to change this notion, and in a big way. Cachaça is going through an identity crisis in America primarily because of the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) labeling cachaça, quite unfairly, as “Brazilian rum,” instead of giving it its own category. The question here is: should cognac be labeled “French brandy”? Or should English gin be labeled “botanical flavored vodka”? Not likely. Cachaça involves a long and rich history, carrying a noble legacy as Brazil’s national spirit. Eventually, the Brazilian designation will triumph, as it’s the destiny of every spirit to be named specific to the purpose, culture and sipping occasions it was designed for. For example, with the new focus by the PBDAC (a Brazilian govern- mental agency for the development of sugar cane spirits production) and Brazil’s Association of Cachaça Producers, resources and studies are being devoted to improving the quality and techniques of cachaça production. Currently, there are over 30,000 cachaça producers in Ypioca is the oldest cachaça brand in Brazil and the largest estate producer. Distilled from first-press sugar- cane juice, this clear, medium-bodied cachaça is aged at least one year in barrels of Brazilian walnut, acquiring peppery notes and a fruity nose. Ypioca single-handedly kept the cachaça category alive in the U.S. market. Pitú, another large cachaça brand in the U.S., is light, aromatic and flavorful with vegetal and wood flavor. A good cachaça and very reasonably priced. Boca Loca has a touch of sweetness with buttery notes in the nose and mild flavors. This cachaça is also very fairly priced and perfect if you’re looking to make Caipirinhas. Cabana, a pioneer of super-premium artisanal cachaça in the U.S., has fruity and warm tropical fruit notes of banana, guava and lime, along with butterscotch. There is also a grassy hint, typical of Brazil’s national spirit but not as strong as most other brands. If you like super-premium Caipirinhas, this is the one to pick. It might cost a few extra dollars but is worth the investment. The Brazilian government and the Cachaça Association are working to bring cachaça quality up toward that of the finest spir- its of the world” Brazil, with a total annual production of 1.3 billion liters a year. This mostly consists of low- to average-quality industrial cachaça and generates the equivalent of over 600 million U.S. dollars in revenue. However, with a new commitment to quality and the rising interest in the spirit, a movement to bring cachaça into a new era is taking place. The main goal is not necessarily increasing the domestic market, but rather to increase the quality and exportation of the spirit. Currently, the Brazilian govern- ment and the Cachaça Association are working to bring cachaça quality up toward that of the finest sprits in the world, rivaling the likes of fine cognacs and whiskies. To accomplish this, the Brazilian government and cachaça producers are formulating new guidelines to elevate artisanal cachaça by developing strains of yeast and using specific sugarcane varieties to develop an appella- tion in the same fashion as a tequila, bourbon or cognac. Furthermore, Brazil has the ability to age cachaça in unique native woods such as amendoim, balsamo, jatoba and jacatiba rosa. This gives cachaça and cachaça envelhecida (aged) specific and notable flavor profiles, generating the recognition they richly deserve. With new high-quality cachaças on the market, the future of cachaça exports is looking bright indeed. Here are some examples of quality cachaça now avail- able in the United States. Agua Luca, an artisanal high quality, hand-cut sugar- cane cachaça, has a bright, sweet and light fruity nose and an exceptionally pure flavor. One of the very best of the new wave of cachaças. Sagatiba Pura, a very popular brand in Europe, especially in England, has a big following. It is a high- quality distillate made with freshly harvested sugarcane juice. Citrus, lemon grass and herbal notes on the nose; very smooth, clean and dry on the palate. The perfect spirit for mixing great cocktails. As a Mixologist for Southern Wine & Spirits of Nevada, I’ve noticed an increase in the demand for cachaça as a primary ingredient for new cocktail recipes and menus. This emergence is primarily due to the popularity of the Caipirinha—the driving force behind the need for this spirit. The Caipirinha is doing for cachaça what the Margarita did for tequila. With Brazil hosting the next World Cup in 2014 and the Olympic Games in 2016, coupled with the growth of the Brazilian economy, the popularity and recogni- tion of cachaça will rise significantly. As America gets acquainted with this unique and emerging spirit, the possibilities and optimism for growth are endless and well-founded. I’ll drink to that. Saúde! august 2010 / the tasting panel / 67

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