Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/14611
BLUE REVIEWS Here are my notes: 88 Countessa Ginevra Venerosi Pesciolini of Tenuta di Ghizzano. Best of Both Worlds Tuscany Meets Bordeaux At Tenuta di Ghizzano by Anthony Dias Blue THIS BEING THE TASTING PANEL’S Year of the Woman in Wine, it’s appropriate to focus on one of Italy’s most accomplished vintners, Countessa Ginevra Venerosi Pesciolini of Tenuta di Ghizzano. Ghizzano is now one of the best estates in Tuscany, largely thanks to Ginevra, who took over from her father, Pierfrancesco, in 1995. Ginevra’s ancestors had been involved in viticulture since the end of the 14th century at Tenuta di Ghizzano, but in the 1980s, under Pierfrancesco Pesciolini, quality became a priority and, for the first time, the wines from this area became known to the outside world. Today, under Ginvera’s watch, 85% of the 50 acres of vineyards (on an 865-acre estate that also produces olives and grain) have been replanted at a much higher density than before—up to 6,600 vines per hectare. Organic and biodynamic farming techniques mean that the estate uses no fertilizers, weed killers, fungicides or insecticides. The unique geographic situation of Ghizzano, a small hillside village midway between Florence and the coastal city of Livorno, makes this area ideal for both Bordelais varieties and more heat-tolerant Sangiovese—the best of both worlds. Being outside a designated zone such as Chianti Classico or Montalcino, the estate is free to utilize both types of grapes in its wines, which carry a Toscana IGT. The first commerical wine from Ghizzano, first vinified in 1985, was Veneroso, a stylish Sangiovese-Cabernet blend made in tribute to family forebear Veneroso Venerosi. The stunning flagship Nambrot, named for another ancestor from medieval times, is a Merlot-driven blend encompassing Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, depending on vintage. The charming Il Ghizzano is an entry-level Sangiovese-Merlot blend. I was recently fortunate enough to taste not just the current releases from Tenuta di Ghizzano, but also some previous vintages and a few upcoming releases. Tenuta di Ghizzano is imported by Henriot Inc. 60 / the tasting panel / august 2010 89 93 89 Tenuta di Ghizzano 2007 Il Ghizzano, Toscana Smooth and ripe with lovely, rich flavors with earth, spice and nice grip; long and dense. 80% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot. Tenuta di Ghizzano 2008 Il Ghizzano, Toscana ($15) Smooth, ripe and with lovely plum and berries; fresh, juicy and charming 85% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot. 90 Tenuta di Ghizzano 2003 Veneroso, Toscana ($30) Notes of sweet plum and juicy acidity; earthy, complex and lively with lovely fruit and great length. 70% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Tenuta di Ghizzano 2006 Veneroso, Toscana (not yet released) Bright and elegant, silky and smooth with great structure and nice depth; long, stylish and charming. 70% Sangiovese, 30% Merlot. Tenuta di Ghizzano 2004 Nambrot, Toscana ($48) Rich and meaty with density, depth and ripe plum and spice; lush, velvety and long with ripe fruit, chocolate and elegance; supple, complex and stylish. 70% Merlot , 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot. 92 Tenuta di Ghizzano 2005 Nambrot, Toscana ($48) Dark and concentrated with overt plum and blackberry fruit; rich and ripe with density, lovely fruit and balance; velvety and juicy, long and supple. 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot.