Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/1433300
THE ARTISAN WINTER 2022 • 33 Kelly Golden, Chris Hampton, and I adjusted her base tone and overall foundation to match those eyes and wigs during our prosthetic application each day. So much of her face was covered in appliances that it made sense for us to handle her overall foundation and base skin tone. We really had a nice system in place where she would bounce between our three chairs in different orders depending on the time period. Some days, especially in the later, more extreme stages, she would start with Linda doing her intense eye shadow so we could avoid any dark powder falling onto the appliances. We would then clean up her skin around the eyes and glue on the appliances, tying it all together before going to hair and final looks with Linda. Thom Floutz, Bryson Conley, and Chris Hampton handled all of Andrew Garfield's looks on set. Chris and Thom established his whole foundation during the prosthetics application. Bryson then would apply one of the many wigs he ventilated for each stage, though Andrew did use his own hair in the early stages. Jim typically had a more tanned skin tone that was added to Andrew in the airbrushing process. In all stages, Andrew wore some form of cheek appliances, bronzed skin tone and custom wigs. Since Jessica and Andrew were in all the same timelines, we wanted to carry the approach and aging process in a very unified way. The key anatomical elements we wanted to maintain for Tammy/Jessica was Tammy's fuller cheeks, filling the dimple in Jessica's chin, and lifting Jessica's nose tip to see more of her nostril openings. Those key elements carry through all her looks, and only change based on the age or weight gains. With Jim/Andrew, he always had some form of full cheek appliances, and like our approach on Jessica, we added and adjusted the appliance sculptures as he aged or gained weight. Prosthetics Stages for Tammy Stage 1 (1960s-early 1980s) – Prosthetic cheeks, invisible tape on nose to lift the tips, and a chin appliance. All silicone appliances. Her canine teeth were also partially blocked out to give the illusion of smaller and angled teeth; this was Tammy Faye's look before she had cosmetic dental surgery to adjust. Stage 2 (mid-'80s) – Full silicone neck to add weight, larger silicone cheek appliances, chin appliance, upper-lip appliance to reduce her lip line and the same nose tape. Stage 3 (mid-'90s) – Aged further, both by time and the loss of their fortune and business. Full silicone neck to add weight and age, further aged full silicone cheek appliances, chin appliance, upper lip and lower appliance to reduce her lip line, stretch and stipple around eyes, and the same nose tape. • In all looks, her skin was matched with a translucent spatter of reds, browns, and various skin tones to match her own skin. As Tammy Faye started to use bronzer and darken her skin, we added a custom blend of MAC face and body airbrushed over the top of the skin matched appliances to complete her look, along with shadows, highlights, blush, and even mica highlight pops on the cheeks using a RCMA illuminating stick with a brush or sponge. Prosthetics Stages for Jim Stage 1 (1960s-early 1980s) – Silicone cheeks. Along with a more tanned skin tone. Stage 2 (mid-'80s) – Larger silicone cheek appliances that wrap to include a bit of a second chin to give weight, and the beginning of some delicate aging techniques with paint and powder. Stage 3 (mid-'90s) – Aged further by time, losses, and prison. Full silicone neck to add weight and age, further aged full silicone cheek appliances, stretch and stipple around the eyes, and partial bald pate. • In all looks, Thom and Chris adjusted his skin tone to have a bit more of a tan than Andrew's own natural skin. All colors were achieved with a combination of alcohol-based airbrush colors and hand brush work, along with some PPI Greg Cannom PM colors. Kelly Golden touching up Jessica's stage two prosthetics.