Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/142283
MAKING HISTORY Benedict recounts. "They advised us to plant Riesling." Although that "riled them tremendously," Benedict's and Sanford's neighbors stood beside them, cheering them on and helping out anyway they could. "And I think they were also fascinated with our audacity," he laughs. But unconventional wisdom won out. They had planted the correct grape(s) for the terroir and soon other growers and winemakers were producing impressive Burgundian fruit from the area. Looking Forward "The vineyard's history makes the experience a rich one for me," says Fennell, who has picked up insight on specific blocks and some of the wellknown clones, such as a Martini Gamay Beaujolais clone that had simply been labeled a "field selection" before its pedigree became known. "I'm so glad you wanted to get cuttings of Pinot Noir from us," Fennell looks across the table to Benedict, as we are tasting through some current vintages of Sanford Pinot Noir from Sanford & Benedict Vineyard. (Benedict is using the cuttings for a local project he is involved in.) "Yes, I am glad I called for permission," Benedict says, and then hesitates. "I could have bootlegged them. My old employees are yours now . . . but I am glad I had the opportunity to say hello. Actually, it's all very romantic," he says quite seriously. "The trade's interest in this vineyard is romantic as well. People talk about the je ne sais quoi of this land—it's just a great vineyard and always will be. Now Steve is on the spot to keep the wines shining. If the wines are no good, there's only the winemaker to blame. Fortunately, Steve Fennell has nurtured the land properly." The Wines of Sanford & Benedict: Building a Wine Community In addition to Sanford & Benedict Vineyard wines estate-bottled by Sanford Winery, other local producers also purchase fruit off the stellar Santa Rita Hills property to make exceptional wines. Here are some highlights, along with the last three vintages of Pinot Noir from Sanford. Sandhi 2011 Sanford & Benedict Chardonnay Sandhi was founded in 2010 by Rajat Parr, Wine Director for Michael Mina Restaurants; Charles Banks, the former owner of Jonata and Screaming Eagle; and esteemed winemaker Sashi Moorman. Mineral lean and chamomileherb driven, this Chardonnay, picked at low sugar levels, "captures a consistency with Sanford & Benedict Chardonnays, regardless of the level of ripeness, Michael " Benedict notes, as we taste the wine together. The distinct stony palate connects at the tip of the tongue, while a dripping sensation of vanilla wax candle, mint and menthol heads to the back of the teeth. Tyler 2011 Sanford & Benedict Pinot Noir Tinted light raspberry, this ripe and heady Pinot hails from one of the oldest blocks on the vineyard. "It's the Martin Ray clone, explains Benedict, who says he acquired it from Carl Wente's " Arroyo Seco (Monterey) plantings. "I was impressed by the results the clone had exhibited, so I planted and voilà!" Sanford Winery Estate Bottled 2009 Sanford & Benedict Pinot Noir From an evenly balanced growing season with low yields, Steve Fennell and his team were able to pick block by block at ideal times. "The wine showcases the right combination of tannin and texture, he tells THE " TASTING PANEL. We found raspberry, soil and chocolate lined with sage and basil, spice and earth. "The wine is just now starting to show its best qualities after two years in the bottle, Fennell adds. " Deovlet 2011 Sanford & Benedict Chardonnay Winemaker Ryan Deovlet makes Chardonnay from throughout Santa Barbara County, but at Sanford & Benedict picks riper than most, according to Benedict. The wine is intensely mineral-driven, almost "scratching" the tongue with sage and texture. "It's feeling more than flavor, Benedict points out, and we agree. This is one " edgy white. Sanford Winery 2010 Estate Bottled Sanford & Benedict Pinot Noir (releases next month) A silky sensation, imparted with espresso, creates a gliding effect on the tongue. This is the definition of brooding, deep and dark, and delicious. Lean and spicy, with dense layers on top of a vibrant core. "2010 was two vintages abruptly joined, comments Fennell. "We had the " coolest summer on record, many days only reaching the high '60s, with the marine layer barely clearing. It was followed by a long growing season going into the second week of September. We determined that it was going to be a late harvest, and just on the cusp of getting the fruit fully ripened. Then, all of a sudden, the temps are over 100 degrees—a huge shock to the vines. We had to pick the entire vineyard in six days. It was panic based on urgency. " Sanford Winery 2011 Estate Bottled Sanford & Benedict Pinot Noir (releases next year) An Earth Mother vintage, this Pinot shows off a savory side, feminine and pretty. Raspberry flavors are forward and although youthful, very bright and mineral-driven. "2011 is what '10 was originally meant to be, Fennell " states. "We never got the heat spike and it was not as cold as 2010. " 124 / the tasting panel / july 2013 TP0713_100-148.indd 124 6/24/13 6:04 PM