Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/1352017
from the Prada archives. "It was a puzzle piece kind of process, which was really cool," he says. "Then they would send me a couple of options for each of the costumes, and I would give direction, adjusting details and selecting the fabrics from their collection that best supported my vision." Simultaneously, Nieddu's menswear designs were also taking shape in multiple locations. Jimmy Fletcher's costumes were built by Jack Kasbarian at Western Costume and by Felsen Tailors' Marvin Schlichting in Toronto, who also built clothing for Louis McKay (Rob Morgan). Chicago tailor Kang Zheng of Paul Chang Custom Tailors, with whom Nieddu had worked on Empire, took on the suits for Lester "Prez" Young (Tyler Williams). "We found a period suit that fit him, that I used as a template. And I sent that to Chicago with all my fabrics from B. Black, asking how fast can you churn out four suits?" He laughs about the efforts to track and coordinate it all. "Prez is being made in Chicago, Fletcher's in Toronto, Jack is shipping stuff from Western. And of course, we had Jacques Ducet, our staff tailor in the workroom in Montreal." Reflecting on the role of costume designer as mastermind and orchestra leader, Nieddu comments, "So many people were involved, making costumes. I think of all of the hands from the houses, and my tailors in Canada. It was a wonderful group effort." Photo: Takashi Seida Trevante Rhodes and Garrett Hedlund in The U.S. vs. Billie Holiday Illustration by Paul Keng