Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/12827
Shining Debut for the Beaujolais Crus T he 2009 vintage in Beaujolais drew attention when key producer Georges Duboeuf announced its quality at the conclusion of harvest. Reviewers followed with better-than-aver- age assessments of the Nouveau which, like the region itself, has been suffering from an identity crisis of late. Duboeuf’s confidence in the vintage was evident when he and grandson Adrian brought their Cru wines to San Francisco in late March for a tasting at Roland Passot’s La Folie. Dubbing 2009 “the vintage of the sun,” Duboeuf compared his ’09 wines to the post-war vintages of ’47 and ’49. “The Villages are aromatic and fruit-forward, while the Crus are full-bod- ied and opulent.” As the largest producer in the region, representing over 400 growers, many of whom requested a dispensation to begin harvesting on August 25 for parcels where potential alcohol had reached 12°, the largesse of ’09 is an opportunity for Duboeuf to put the region back on track. With overall quality at an all-time high, standouts include the Brouilly Flower Label (SRP $13.99), with dark cherry and kirsch with plenty of grip; the Juliénas Flower Label (SRP $12.99), with complex floral, dark berry and spice aromas that intensify on the palate; the Morgon Domaine Jean Descombes (SRP $14.99), showing a more typi- cal carbonic maceration expression with fleshy, mixed fruits of raspberry and peach supported by chewy, ripe tannins; and the Moulin-à-Vent, Domaine des Rosiers (SRP $16.99), delivering aromas of bright strawberry and black currant with a lengthy finish. As a final and telling demonstration, Duboeuf poured the 2005 Moulin-à-Vent Prestige, which showed very well, with earthy notes and bright acidity, but didn’t possess the depth of the current vintage. —DPW Imported by W .J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd. Left to right: Importer Bill Deutsch, Georges Duboeuf, Chef Jean- Georges Vongerichten, Franck Duboeuf and Peter Deutsch at the rollout of the 2009 Beaujolais vintage at ABC Kitchen in NYC. “Blue Grand Canyon” creates “Thermal Rainbow” in Monterey W inegrowers in Monterey County now have a branded way to explain the region’s unique climatic conditions. By using the terms “Blue Grand Canyon” and “Thermal Rainbow”—trade- marks developed by the Monterey County Vintners & Growers Association (MCVGA) after a year-long study to evaluate the region— member producers can promote the maritime influence of the Monterey Bay on the county’s vineyards. The marine Blue Grand Canyon that forms Monterey Bay creates a spectrum of growing conditions, or Thermal Rainbow, down the 90-mile Salinas River Valley, creating the state’s longest growing season, in which 42 different varieties can thrive. “The powerful visual images created by these terms help us convey the exact growing conditions that impact our sites,” says Cheryl Indelicato of Loredona Vineyards. “We now have a way to explain the geography behind our region in a way that interests and engages consumers.” —DPW www.montereywines.org july 2010 / the tasting panel / 89 PHOTO: JENNIFER MITCHELL PHOTOGRAPHY