Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/12827
with California winemaker and consultant Zelma Long. She and Schoenfeld have worked on a specialized block to eliminate “quality bottlenecks” from which they’ve created Rom, a new premium blend released under the Yarden label by Golan Heights Winery (see sidebar). The technology and ratings (Israeli wine critic Daniel Rogov consistently rates the wines in the 90s) have helped propel the wines in the press and on the shelves. But the wines still remain somewhat of a local secret: 80 percent is sold domestically and the U.S. gets almost half the export market (11.3% is imported to Germany, Scandinavia, Italy and Japan). The goal over the next three to four years: double total export. “The initial approach was get into the kosher markets, and now our marching orders are to expand outside the kosher arena,” says Richard Hutchinson, Vice President of Sales for Yarden Wines, Inc. in the U.S. Getting people over the kosher concept has been a struggle admits CEO of Marketing Udi Kadem. “We would prefer people don’t label them kosher. In fact, they’re excel- lent wines that happen to be kosher,” he said. And, says Galil’s Vaadia, “We are in an additional position where we are asked what kind of wine we are—are we Old or New World? We are an old region, but have lost our identity. We have a huge history, and because we have lost a lot, we are new.” Golan Heights Winery chief winemaker Victor Schoenfeld with California winemaker and consultant Zelma Long. “It’s a Mediterranean wine county that has no native varieties, making the country somewhat of a wine labora- tory,” says Golan Heights Winery chief winemaker Victor Schoenfeld. “It’s a continual process of us learning about our vineyards and land and what we have.” Under his watch, the winery has shifted from 80 percent white to 80 percent red varieties in response to both consumer market preferences and identifying the best grapes for the Golan’s climate and soil. Schoenfeld and his Galil Mountain colleague, Micha Vaadia, both U.C. Davis graduates, also benefit from considerable investment in technology. Thirteen weather stations transmit data every second on leaf wetness and meteorological conditions. A viticulture SWAT team has conducted in-depth studies vine-breeding, soil and sunlight— a considerable concern for harshly exposed vineyards in the Golan. The winery is in Phase I of a joint-venture nursery that will yield super-clean breeding stock. The intense work has paid off: Most international variet- ies have succeeded here. The Merlots have improved with organic farming, and Golan hangs its hat on Cabernet Sauvignon. Pinot Noir is still a stylistic challenge, Says Vaadia, “It is like a comedian—it presents itself differently all the time.” But the wineries share a stylistic DNA: fruit-for- ward flavors, good acidity and moderate extraction. Even Robert M. Parker has taken note, checking in on Israel twice a year. “Ten years ago we couldn’t have dreamed of that coverage,” says Schoenfeld. “And in another five to ten years, the wines will be even more impressive than they are now.” Another reason to do a double take: a new partnership july 2010 / the tasting panel / 83 But in the end, he says, “We don’t like to say we are Old or New World: We are in this world.” www.yardenwines.com Rom Presented in the spirit of “work locally, think globally” and reflecting the collaboration between Zelma Long and Victor Schoenfeld, Rom was created as an export-oriented wine. Rom, which means, “summit” in Hebrew, launched in New York City in May. The 2006 vintage (SRP $150) is blended from 37% Syrah, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Merlot, and is sourced from vineyards in the central and northern Golan Heights and upper Galilee. Aged in French oak for 21 months, it was bottled without filtration. The flavors—ripe black cherries, plum and blueberry—express them- selves on the palate more than the nose. Drink now or cellar for about ten years. PHOTO: LANA BORTOLOT PHOTO: LANA BORTOLOT