Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/12827
Petite Sirah Legacy “Petite Sirah is our legacy variety,” Paul Foppiano states. The first Foppiano Petite Sirah was introduced in 1964. In 2002, Foppiano hosted the first Petite Sirah Symposium at the winery; the group is better known as “P.S. I Love You.” Louis M. Foppiano became the organization’s first charter member. In fact, Foppiano Vineyards has its own certified Petite Sirah clone. Reclaiming its leadership role as the winery’s flagship Petite Sirah will be the fall release of the Foppiano 2008 Estate Petite Sirah (SRP $20, 6,500 cases). Tooth-coating tannins sidle up to ripe plum, maple syrup and blackberry. A new, gentle de-stemming process, along with whole-berry, open-top (and some closed-top) fermentation, a ration of new French oak and a small percentage of Hungarian oak create an avenue for a chocolate, smoky intensity without any herbal or coconut influence. “The former Foppiano style would try to get as much tonnage of Petite Sirah as we could get ripe,” explains Foppiano. “Now, we are purposefully getting smaller yields and therefore more balanced fruit from our mature vineyards.” would foreshadow her present-day mission: working with Petite Sirah on her family vineyard. Maintaining Foppiano’s vineyard quality requires little manipulation, according to West, who truly believes in the quality of the estate fruit. However, she has full say on produc- tion methods, such as night harvesting, which keeps the grapes crisper and fresher and helps maintain their natural acidity. “This also makes cold- soaking easier,” she points out. West’s wines are vibrant, aromatic and fresh. Sustainable farming through ecologi- cal balance is an important factor for Foppiano. “Nurturing the land is an investment for our future,” Foppiano asserts. “We use what nature provides.” Cover crops return nutrients to soil and improve its structure, water is con- served and predators are introduced to maintain the vineyards instead of using chemicals to kill rodents and insects. Owl boxes line a path above the grape rows. Owls find the gophers before the gophers find the young vines. A (Family) Business Environment With a degree in Business Administration and years of experi- ence in corporate and local wineries, Foppiano President and COO Todd Arterburn understands the behind-the- scenes economics of the industry. “My real role,” he begins, “is to create a business environment in which the Foppianos can thrive.” The revital- ization includes re-packaging, a nod to the Russian River Valley appellation and the estate. The old-style script ties in with the winery’s history, while the relevance of the AVA drives place. “Paul started working here as Vineyard Manager six years ago,” remarks Arterburn, “to reclaim the winery’s legacy as a pioneer in the Russian River Valley—to replant just the right varieties for this estate. Natalie now has access to world-class fruit, and I have the ability to access capital to support the program and stay the course.” Building volume with its new releases, the winery has an eventual capacity of 25,000 cases, but as of now, production is at the 10,000-case level. “With all of our rich history here, we know now what we want to be when we grow up.” The New Releases from Foppiano Vineyards The Foppiano 2009 Russian River Valley Estate Sauvignon Blanc (SRP $18, 850 cases) is a shiner: Fragrant peach, pear and pineapple notes are vibrant to its crisp core. From 30-year- old dry-farmed vines, “the fruit knows what it’s doing,” states winemaker Natalie West. The wine was cold-fer- mented in stainless steel tanks. Releasing this fall is the Foppiano 2009 Estate Chardonnay (SRP $22, 600 cases), whole cluster–pressed and aged in 25% new, 75% neutral French oak. Barrel-fermented and aged sur lie, the soft vanilla, slightly spiced tapioca richness is held steady by a wall of acid and a mineral back. The result is Russian River typicity: an eloquent expression of delicate apple and pear fruit. Over-delivering in value is the Foppiano 2008 Russian River Valley Estate Pinot Noir (SRP $25, 800 cases). It coats the tongue with a dense- ness and a mouthfeel that are preceded by a room-filling waft of cherry aromatics. Open-top fermentation and gentle pressing (along with 70% neutral oak) allow a roundness that is not disturbed by oak. Flavors run from blueberry, cinnamon, forest freshness and mocha to cardamom spice. july 2010 / the tasting panel / 75