Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/1025306
september 2018 / the tasting panel / 51 With the European Union's Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and Protected Geographic Indication (PGI) cer- tifications in place to insure quality, monovarietal Garnacha/ Grenache is flourishing. Notably, it's being produced in five Spanish DOs (Denominaciónes de Origen)—represent- ing roughly 5,500 winegrowers and 144 wineries—and in France's Roussillon by an estimated 2,200 winemaker families, 25 co-ops, and 350 private cellars. In Spain's DO Calatayud, where traditional harvesting at high altitudes (up to 1,100 meters, or 3,600 feet, above sea level) meets modern technology, the Garnacha/Grenache- based wines show prominent fruit and minerality prized by connoisseurs. In DO Campo de Borja, known as the "Empire of Garnacha," 40 percent of the vines are between 30 and 50 years old. Created in 1932, DO Cariñena is one of the oldest protected growing areas in Europe and is sixth in export volume among Spain's wine regions. In the progressive DO Somontano, meanwhile, low-fertility soils yield rich wines with modern flavor profiles. DO Terra Alta is noted for both red and white versions of Garnacha, producing 70 percent of the Garnacha Blanca made by Spanish PDOs. Exports represent 65 percent of sales from these five Spanish PDOs, much higher than the 43 percent from all Spanish DOs combined. Across the border in France's Roussillon, a new genera- tion of winemakers is exploring the potential of Garnacha/ Grenache to create vibrant contemporary wines backed by tradition, making Roussillon a Grenache powerhouse. "Roussillon is one of the cradles of Grenache," says Eric Aracil, Export Director for Wines of Roussillon. "This variety is found in its black, white, and gray forms as well as a 'hairy' version called Lledoner Pelut. That this is a family of grape varieties is key for us, because as such it occupies nearly 41 percent of the total cultivated area and is found as a single varietal wine and in blends. It is therefore a 'must' variety, a Roussillon pureblood." American consumers are clearly keen on wines from Roussillon's 15 PDOs and three PGIs: Exports to the U.S. increased 166 percent between 2010 and 2016. W hy European Garnacha/Grenache? "Given that the variety originated here, we benefit from the expertise of cultivating the grape for more than 1,000 years as well as having the optimal conditions," says Sofía Gonzalez, who oversees the European Garnacha/Grenache Quality Wines program. European winemakers engage in optimal site selection and viticultural techniques as they seek out well-drained, low-vigor soils for plantings, paying close attention to water stress and sun exposures. Garnacha/Grenache can grow in many soil types, but it thrives in the limestone, slate, schist, and clay abundantly available in both northeastern Spain and Roussillon; there, it develops wines with intense minerality sought out by enophiles. Strong winds in these Mediterranean regions also serve to promote vine health. Keen on protecting heritage old-vine Garnacha/Grenache, these European vintners maintain natural low yields for enhanced quality and concentration. The vines' deep roots also auto-regulate berry production while giving a tangible sense of place to the finished wines. Today's Garnacha/ Grenache winegrowers also opt to wait for full ripeness to increase the wines' fleshiness, balance, and drinkability. Garnacha/Grenache can serve as a base for a wide range of styles: whites, rosés, reds, and sparkling wines, as well as specialties such as natural and fortified sweet wines (the grape's ability to withstand oxidation results in some unique rancio styles as well). In short, there's virtually no limit to the versatility of the Garnacha/Grenache grape family when grown in compatible terroirs like those found in northeast- ern Spain and Roussillon. European Garnache/Grenache appeals to wine lovers of all generations, from adventurous millennials to older, expe- rienced explorers. With International Garnacha/Grenache Day approaching (see below), there's no better time to get to know this captivating variety once again. CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM THE EUROPEAN UNION THE EUROPEAN UNION SUPPORTS CAMPAIGNS THAT PROMOTE HIGH QUALITY AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS International Garnacha/Grenache Day For International Garnacha/Grenache Day on Friday, September 21, we suggest you celebrate—and educate your guests at the same time—by featuring Spanish European Garnacha and Grenache on your wine list during the month of September. In New York City, for example, various activations around Garnacha/Grenache will take place at Pierre Loti, a Mediterranean restaurant and wine bar in Manhattan's Chelsea district. The lineup will include four all-night happy hours (September 5, 12, 19, and 26 from 4 p.m. until 1 a.m.) featuring Garnacha/Grenache wines, as well as a special event on Garnacha/Grenache Day. garnachagrenache.com #GarnachaDay #GrenacheDay Gnarled old-vine Garnacha/Grenache is cherished by European winemakers.