Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/101724
According to René Araneda, President of Wines of Chile, "We are committed to becoming the numberone producer of premium, sustainable and diverse wines from the New World by 2020. The development and implementation of our state-of-the-art code is a key pillar toward achieving this objective." Chile has long embraced sustainable farming and is the irst country to make social responsibility a key part of its program. But wineries such as Montes Alpha, founded in 1988 by winemaker Aurelio Montes, have consistently tried to lessen ecologic impact while making sure that customer and employee needs are met. "As a nation, Chileans are rarely in a hurry," Montes notes. "So rather than push for immediate results, we are able to take a long-range view. This gives us space to truly understand what's happening in the vineyard over time, enabling us to create better wine at every step of the process." The Roots of the Matter Ungrafted rootstocks are part of the equation, and the fact that there may be almost no need to spray any chemicals, not even organics, is unique in the wine world. Chile is blessed by signiicant physical barriers on all sides: the Paciic Ocean to the west, the Andes to the east, desert to the north and glaciers in Patagonia to the south. Low insect and fungal pressures and no phylloxera allow vines—many of which are on original rootstock—to provide fruit with extremely pure expressions of variety and region. "One of the great things about Chile is the natural sustainability of the vineyards," says Lori Tieszen, Executive Director for Wines of Chile USA. "Climate, topography and geographical location all allow sustainable practices to be implemented seamlessly while producing quality wines at very competitive price points compared to most other regions." This intense focus on sustainability doesn't stop in the vineyard. Montes Alpha's winery in Apalta was designed according to the principles of feng shui, incorporating the prime elements of water, metal and wood into its design. "Barrels are serenaded by Gregorian chants throughout the day," says Montes. "We make use of any technique that will bring wine into harmony with its surroundings. There may be no scientiic way to quantify the impact of these measures—it's dificult to prove that happy grapes make great wine. But less stress enables the crew to relax and focus on creating the best wines possible." Love of Place PHOTO: MATT WILSON For Viña Maquis Managing Director Ricardo Rivadeneira, sustainable wine is all about love of place, passion for producing quality that relects origin, and caring for workers, many of whom have been working with his family for generations. His family's story helps sales of their bottles, especially in countries like Sweden, where only certiied sustainable wines are available. "I believe that demand in the U.K., Canada and the U.S. will continue to grow because consumers share our view that we all need to care for the environment, local communities, workers and fair trade." German Lyon, chief winemaker at Perez Cruz, agrees that wine production is not only a business: "It is a lifestyle. Future generations should have the ability to work with the same or better environmental conditions. Consumers are also becoming more informed every day, as are the relationships they want to have with various wines and winemakers." To be successful, wineries will need to respond honestly and quickly to this new vector of client interest. Like Montes, Carmen winemaker Sebastian Labbe has been actively involved with sustainable wine for a number of years. But he also knows that it can't be the entire story. "Sustainability is one of our company values, as it is for Trinchero Family Estates, which imports Carmen in the U.S. We always strive to make the best possible wine by relying on practices that not only take care of the environment but maintain a healthy business and give our people better opportunities. However, it is very clear that wine quality comes irst. We are in this business to make premium wines that are also sustainable." Tasting Notes Carmen Gran Reserva 2011 Chardonnay, Casablanca, Chile ($15) Medium-bodied and quite well-balanced, this crowd-pleasing white shows yellow pear and starfruit up-front. Over time pineapple and candied lemon zest round out an impressively long package. " TRINCHERO FAMILY ESTATES Montes Alpha 2010 Pinot Noir , Casablanca, Chile ($22) Rich and round, with black cherry, plum and sage on the nose. The palate brings forest loor, dark plum and mocha and the inish is deep and dark. TGIC IMPORTERS Calcu 2010 Cabernet Franc, Colchagua, Chile ($13) Saddle leather is the entry point, followed by fennel fronds and black raspberry on nose and tongue. A back palate of black cherries and ripe dates frames supple tannins and toasty oak on the inish. GLOBAL VINEYARD Viu Manent 2008 El Incidente Carménère, Colchagua, Chile ($48) A very suave and debonair package that supports this often rustic grape variety very well. Red cherry, blackberry and almond paste join baking spice and pain grille on a moderately acidic frame. BACCHUS IMPORTS Perez Cruz 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva, Maipo, Chile ($16) Minty and fresh, with elegant black plum and cherry on the nose and Earl Grey tea and toasty oak on the smooth, supple inish. SOUTH AMERICAN WINE IMPORTERS Viña Maquis 2008 Lien, Colchagua, Chile ($28) Richly endowed with blackberries and red lowers, this broadly appealing red blend also brings cinnamon and dark chocolate to the entire palate from front to back. GLOBAL VINEYARD january 2013 / the tasting panel / 137