The SOMM Journal

August / September 2018

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98 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2018 Grandes Vinos 2017 Anayón Parcel 81 (Parcelas Selection) Five cooperatives partnered in 1997 to work with vineyards in each of the 14 growing areas of DOP Cariñena. This was a tank sample from a field blend selection from 2.5 acres. Translucent ruby; bright red berry and red florals with wild-herb notes; ripe strawber - ries, chocolate-covered raspberries, grippy acid, and slate-like minerality with a sweet red-berry finish. 88% Garnacha, 8% Cari - ñena, and 4% Macabeo; 14.5% ABV; 2,000 bottles will be produced. Clos Pissarra 2014 El Mont Vineyard, El Lloar Priorat Made with fruit from vines more than a century old grown on extremely steep slopes of clay and granite soils in double-cordon-trained ver tical shoots. The vineyard borders a forest and yields a mere three-quar ters of a ton per acre. Shimmering deep-ruby color ; bursting with lovely red and black fruits, black currants, sweet tobacco, bright herbs, and nice, fine-grained tannins. Deeply concentrated on the palate but light on its feet, peeling away layers of black cherry, graphite, and purple flowers with a mocha-spice finished. 100% Garnacha; 15.7% ABV; 1,880 bottles produced. Domaine du Pé - gau 2012 Cuvée Laurence Segueing to France, where Grenache is the second-most widely planted variety next to Merlot. The Pegau family has grown vines since the 18th century, with 148 acres under vine amidst 11 vineyards throughout Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The same as the do - maine's Reserve wine, this is whole-cluster bottling pressed into cement vats then aged 40 months in older oak. Pronounced, gorgeous notes of dried rose petals and Mediterranean herbs; round, rich layers of red and black cherry notes; and fabulous structure from supple tannins with cigar- box spice and black licorice on the finish. 85% Grenache, 9% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre, and 2% other ; 14.5% ABV. Clos de Trias 2010 Vieilles Vignes This is an absolute under-$30 stunner produced by Even Bakke, an American ex-pat who purchased an estate in Ventoux in northern Provence and produced his first vintage in 2007. From vineyards 65 to 90-plus years of age rooted in ancient soils similar to the limestone marl of Chablis at roughly 1,200 feet above sea level. 50% whole-cluster pressed. Inspired by Château Rayas' old barrels and aged in Demi-Muids for seven years before spending eight months in bottle. Deep ruby hue; creamy red-berry notes with high-toned minerality. Utterly delicious and layered with concentrated layers of black fruit, blue-fruit compote, and red berries with a salty, crushed-rock minerality on a long finish. 90% Grenache, 0–4% Syrah, 0–5% Carignan, 0–5% Cin - sault; 15.5% ABV; 3,500 bottles produced. Bonny Doon Vineyard 2015 Popelou- chum Grenache Moving into California and Washington, winemaker Randall Grahm took the stage to explain that he's "looking for something original, distinctive, and not an imitation of the work being done in Europe." "I found some 80- to 90-year-old vines in Oakley, California, and that was the first Cigare Volant," he said, adding that his wines exhibit a more experimental approach. This fascinating wine sourced fruit from two-year-old vines harvested from nursery rows and "fermented in a garbage can," said Grahm. "For me it has an elegance and Burgundian character—the kind I've been dreaming about for 30-plus years." In the glass, it's a touch cloudy. Ruby with orange hues, subtle red-berry fruit, and wild herbs or pine-needle spice; a lot of grippy tannins, bracing acidity, and a touch of something meaty with Mexican choco - late on the finish. Very small clusters; very small berries. 100% Grenache; 13.9% ABV; 150 bottles. A Tribute to Grace 2015 Shake Ridge Ranch Grenache Thanks to the presence of large rose quartz boulders sur - rounding the vines at Shake Ridge Ranch in the Sierra Foothills, winemaker Angela Osborne felt an expression of "pink light" in this wine. There's certainly a high-toned candied cin - namon note that mingles with toasty and smoky elements, as well as more crushed- rock-like minerality. A creamy mouthfeel with candied red raspberry, pops of cin- namon, and Himalayan pink sea salt. 100% Grenache. Clone 362 on 3309 rootstock; 50% whole cluster ; native fermentation. Aged in new and used 228- and 600-liter barrels. 13.8% ABV; 125 cases. Tablas Creek Vineyard 2016 Côtes de Tablas Considered the winery's entry-level wine, it's made with hand-harvested grapes from 147 blocks on certified-organic vine - yards. Shimmering ruby with brick hues; notes of super-bright red berries, wild sagebrush, and white chocolate; juicy with sweet red-berry fruit, smoky with pops of Herbes de Provence, powerful woody tannins, and a vanilla-tinged finish. Beaucas - tel nursery cuttings. 55% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 13% Mourvèdre, and 7% Counoise; 13.5% ABV; 2,050 cases. Tasting Garnacha IN TEN WINES

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