The SOMM Journal

August / September 2018

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{ SOMMjournal.com } 83 Château de Lancyre 2016 Le Rosé, Pic Saint- Loup ($17) A substantial medium- plus body supports the dark and tart red fruit in this Pic Saint-Loup– based rosé tinged with purple flowers. The noticeable, silky tannins are likely attributed to the blend of bolder varieties: 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache, and 10% Cinsault. This is an awesome direct-press, no-skin-contact, big- daddy rosé. The estate supports 198 acres of sustainably grown fruit on some of the cool - est hillside in the Pic Saint-Loup, while the château—a 16th-centu - ry building built on the ruins of a 12th-century fort, has been run by the Durand and Valentin families since 1970. HAND PICKED SELECTIONS Chateau Sainte Eulalie 2017 Printemps d'Eulalie, Minervois ($13) This no-nonsense, medium- bodied rosé is made via the saignée method with a blend of Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, and Grenache grown in organic, certified-sus - tainable vineyards. (The Coustal family reno- vated the entire estate in 1996.) Dominated by ripe red raspberries and uber-ripe strawberries, it also features a dash of talcum and a touch of spice, which come to light in the background on the finish. MICHAEL CORSO SELECTIONS Gérard Ber- trand 2017 Château La Sauva- geonne La Villa Rosé ($25) The first read on this onion- skin-colored, fascinating, and super-dry rosé reveals its non-fruit qualities. A striking salin - ity plays against muted grapefruit and just-ripe, tense stone fruit within the sturdy confines of a silky medium body. A bit of fresh sage wafts about in the distance. Old-vine Grenache is co-fermented with Ver - mentino and Viognier (old-vine Mourvèdre is also used). Only free-run and first-press juice is used from a whole-cluster crush; fermentation starts in stainless and ends in barrel. Overall, this wine is electrifying. USA WINE WEST Mas Jullien 2017 Rosé, Coteaux du Languedoc ($22) This saignée rosé made with Carignan, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre is fermented and aged in stainless steel. In addition to a substantial red-fruit quality and obvious savory minerality, a bit of playful, juicy water - melon creates balance as a touch of Tajín sea- soning complements the wine's weight. ROSENTHAL WINE MERCHANT Puech- Haut 2017 Prestige Rosé, Saint- Drézéry ($20) Light cotton-candy color with a buoyancy to match, this fresher- style rosé offers white peach, Rainier cherry, green-tinged strawberry, a touch of spice, and white, floral character. Ending with a dry lem - on-rind finish, this Gr- enache/Cinsault blend is Biodynamically farmed in the clay-limestone soils of Saint-Drézéry in close proximity to Pic Saint-Loup. EUROPEAN CELLARS Doc Doc Goose: Five Outstanding Languedoc Rosés better in quality than Provence and many other French regions. There are less restrictions on grapes used, so avant-garde winemakers can experiment and the results can be quite fantastic." Like Meagher, James also makes sure to highlight the region's broad spectrum of styles. "I don't think a som - melier can properly characterize a Languedoc rosé by flavor profile since the region is so diverse, but one can by philosophy," she explains. "Overall, these wines are much more off the beaten path and can offer great value." "The Fontsainte is fantastic as an apéritif with our steak tartare," Cote Beverage Director Victoria James says. "The dish has pickled mustard seeds and Asian pear, which lightens up the richness of the raw beef. To match the freshness of the fruit and zing of the mustard seeds, the Fontsainte picks up the acidity and refreshes the palate."

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