The SOMM Journal

August / September 2018

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AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2018 VOL. 5 NO. 4 THE SOMM JOURNAL Victoria James, Beverage Director at Cote in New York, pours Domaine de Fonstante. Read the story on page 80. DEPARTMENTS 4 Vox Populi: Who Do You Admire? 12 Editor's Notebook 14 Discoveries: Revel Spirits 16 One Woman's View 18 Beer(d) Science 20 The Ransom Report 22 Good Somm/Bad Somm 24 Elevating the Rockies 26 Restaurant Retrospective: Vespertine 28 Wheying In 30 Bottom Line 34 What We're Drinking: J'NOON 36 Champagne: Salon and Delamotte 38 Milestone: La Scolca 48 Variety Viewpoint: Jolivet 50 Steven Spurrier's Letter from London 51 The SOMM Joury 54 Variety Viewpoint: Planeta's Nero d'Avola 56 Meet the Wine Director: Ryan Bailey of L.A.'s NoMad 59 South American Wine: Trapiche Medalla 68 Score on Sparkling: Gratien & Meyer 70 Verticals: Cayuse 72 Enological Education 74 Vinification: J. Lohr 78 Outings: Hospice du Rhône 84 What We're Drinking: Pineau des Charentes 114 Who's Who in Spirits: David Ravandi 115 Scents & Accountability 116 Cultured Tastes: L.A. Times Food Bowl 118 Hungary: NMR Foodscreener 122 Closing Time: Division Wines PHOTO: DOUG YOUNG 10 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2018

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