The Tasting Panel magazine

November2010

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California Artisanal Brandy WHEN I FIRST DISCOVERED the California brandies from Germain-Robin two decades ago, it was a revelation. Here were spirits that were clearly worthy rivals for the great brandies of Cognac, made from Mendocino-grown grapes and distilled by a young Frenchman, Hubert Germain-Robin, whose family had made brandy in Cognac since the late 18th century. California was not only challenging France in terms of wine, but now also in terms of brandy. Germain-Robin was, and still is, a quality-focused producer, making not just brandies but a range of varietal grappas as well. They are still among my favorite American-made spirits. I also recently tasted the two brandies released by Etude Winery, which I found equally worthy of comment. The original Carneros property that is home to Etude was once a well- known brandy distillery, and when Etude purchased the place in 2002, a number of oak casks filled with aging brandy were thrown in as part of the deal. Etude winemaker John Priest has selected the best lots and created two blends—one showcasing Pinot Noir and the other made from Pinot Noir, French Colombard, Chenin Blanc, Palomino, Chardonnay, Ugni Blanc, Muscat and Folle Blanche grapes. Here are my notes on brandies from both of these California producers. 91 Germain-Robin Select Barrel XO ($120) Caramel nose with some herbs and grass; smooth, light and toasty with ripe dried fruit and spice notes and a clean, long finish. Mellow and nicely textured. CRAFT DISTILLERS 92 Etude Pinot Noir Brandy ($150) Amber color; soft floral and spicy nose; smooth and mellow with elegant crème brûlée flavors; lush and silky with subtlety, length and lovely balance; an impressive achievement. 93 TREASURY WINE ESTATES Etude XO Brandy ($150) Lovely amber color; lush burnt orange and charred oak on the nose; rich and toasted with caramel and dried fruits; dense and layered with amazing depth and elegance; bursting with flavor and beautifully balanced; long and quite astonishingly complex for such a young brandy. 94 TREASURY WINE ESTATES november 2010 / the tasting panel / 51 Germain-Robin VSOP Craft- Method Brandy Lot 27 ($48) Fragrant and smooth with creamy caramel, tea, dried fruits and sweet vanilla oak; spicy, lush and balanced with complexity and excellent length; shows a flash of heat on the finish. CRAFT DISTILLERS

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