Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/992999
12 The Cru Artisan College Study Guide Excerpts taken from the Italian Wine Scholar Manual NOT YOUR NONNA'S MARSALA Sicily's Sweet Complexity MARSALA During the 19th century, the fortified wines of Marsala were among the world's most admired. e wine takes its name from the coastal town of Marsala on Sicily's western tip. In the early 1770s, John Woodhouse, a British merchant, was sailing off the west coast of Sicily when a storm forced him to seek safe harbor at the port of Marsala. While there, Woodhouse tasted a local wine that reminded him of Madeira. Known as vino perpetuo (or perpetuum), this intense and complex wine was produced by local farmers who adopted a process similar to the solera sys- tem of Jerez, Spain. Woodhouse believed this wine could be refined, fortified, and exported to England, so he settled in Marsala and established a winery. roughout the 19th century, the reputation of Marsala continued to grow: In 1805, omas Jefferson tried Marsala for the first time and described it as "an excellent wine, and well worthy of being laid in stocks to acquire age." Marsala's success soon attracted the interest of other British mer- chants, and in the early 1830s, they were joined by the Sicilian entrepreneur Florio, who soon became one of the largest producers of Marsala. In 1931, the Italian government officially delimited the Marsala winegrowing area, and in 1969 the Marsala DOC was established to join some of the first official Italian DOCs. roughout the 20th century, however, Marsala experienced the general decline affecting all Sicily's historic Florio winery, which contains the world 's largest reserve of aged Marsala, reveals the gems of its cellars and demonstrates the history, contemporary context, and bright future of Marsala. fortified wines as consumer preferences shifted toward dry table wines. In an effort to hold onto market share, producers diversified by producing flavored Marsala. It soon became a popular cooking ingredient and was gradually relegated to the kitchen. is deviation from the traditional product seriously dam- aged the reputation of Marsala with lingering consequences that are still evident today. e best examples of quality Marsala remain largely unfamiliar to most consumers. Nonetheless, a few skilled producers, notably Florio, con- tinue to prove that high-quality Marsala can stand among the world's greatest fortified wines. THE AREA OF PRODUCTION: e DOC area covers almost the entire province of Trapani and roughly corresponds to the entire western corner of Sicilia. e vine- yards lie on flat coastal areas and on low-elevation inland hills, while the climate is fully Mediterranean with warm to hot, dry summers and mild winters. Traditionally, vines are trained using the alberello (bush vine) training system. THE GRAPES: By law, Marsala must be produced from four grapes: Grillo, Catarratto, Inzolia, and the less com- mon Damaschino. Considered the most important Marsala grape from a quality standpoint, Grillo enhances texture and aroma while developing high sugar levels. As a rule, the best versions of Marsala are based on Grillo.