The SOMM Journal

June / July 2018

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A PASSION FOR APPASSIMENTO A Sartorial Approach to Classic Veronese Technique VALPOLICELLA e Valpolicella district can be divided into three subzones: Valpolicella Classica, the historic heartland of Valpolicella in the west; Valpantena, located in the middle; and Valpolicella Orientale in the east. As official subzones, Valpolicella Classica and Valpantena can appear on labels. THE GRAPES: According to the DOCG disciplinare, Valpolicella must be produced from the following grapes: Corvina: Considered the superior grape of Valpolicella, it can rep- resent 45–95% of the blend and provides much of the cherry flavor so typical of wines crafted here. Corvinone: Corvinone can replace Corvina in the blend up to a maximum of 50%. Rondinella: is minor blending partner can represent 5–30% of the blend. All three primary grapes are very suitable for air-drying. Additionally, up to 25% of the blend can be complemented by approved auxiliary grapes, with the most common varieties being Molinara, Oseleta, Negrara Veronese, Dindarella, Croatina, and Rossignola. Leading Veronese producers of Amarone and Ripasso wines will share their knowledge of and pas- sion for the unique appassimento winemaking technique—a "farmers' secret" for centuries—dating back to ancient Roman times. THE AREA OF PRODUCTION: e wines produced in Valpolicella, a historic winegrowing district in Veneto, have been highly prized since Roman times. e area is located north of Verona and at the foothills of the Monti Lessini, with the Adige River forming its west- ern border. To the east, Valpolicella abuts the Soave appellation. Topographically, the area is composed of a fan-shaped band of hills and valleys; situated in north-south orientation, they radiate out like fingers from the foot- hills of Monti Lessini. Generally speaking, hills of low and medium elevation possess sandy-gravelly-clay soils (glacial moraine and alluvial deposits) while hills of higher elevation are limestone/marl-based (decomposed dolomite limestone and clay). e hills surrounding the village of Marano are of volcanic origin, and the decomposed basalt found here is locally referred to as toari. e climate is mild thanks to nearby Lake Garda, which moderates tempera- tures, and the Monti Lessini, which blocks cold northern winds. e cool air descending from the Monti Lessini at night also helps preserve the grapes' acidity. Many of the vineyards are on south-facing, terraced hills, with the ter- races often supported by stone walls referred to as marogne. Elevations can reach up to 1,600 feet above sea level. Vines are traditionally trained with the pergola system, but modern vine training systems have also been adopted. e name Valpolicella has uncertain origins. e most common theory suggests that the name is a mix of Latin and Greek, "Vallis‐ polis‐cellae," meaning the "valley of the many cellars." e name Amarone comes from the Italian word "amaro" (meaning "bitter"), as the wine is dry/bitter compared to its alter ego, the sweet Recioto. Its creation was accidental: A vat of fermenting dried grapes accidentally metabolized all of the sugar in the must, resulting in a Recioto wine without sweetness. 8 The Cru Artisan College Study Guide Excerpts taken from the Italian Wine Scholar Manual

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