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6 The Cru Artisan College Study Guide Excerpts taken from the Italian Wine Scholar Manual BUILDERS OF BRUNELLO A Winemaker's Perspective From e Ground Up Montalcino is a small, medieval hill town in the southeastern part of Toscana. Historical evidence of this area as a quality winegrowing district has been documented since the 16th century. At that time, the most prom- inent wines produced were sweet whites made from Moscato (known locally as Moscadello), but red wines gradually acquired more importance during the 17th century. e first men- tion of the name Brunello in conjunc- tion with red wine appeared during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Phylloxera and two World Wars kept wine production in Montalcino at a bare minimum, and just a handful of estates continued to produce Brunello during these difficult times. ings began to shift in the late 1950s as more producers gradually reappeared, and wine production began to slowly increase. Brunello di Montalcino was one of the first Italian wines to receive DOC status in 1966, as well as one of the first to receive a DOCG designa- tion, which occurred in 1980. THE AREA OF PRODUCTION: Montalcino lies 25 miles south of Siena. e winegrowing zone cor- responds exactly with the town's municipal area and almost forms a 9-mile-wide square. e territory can be described as a corrugated upland where a series of uneven hills, slopes, and ridges rise to form roughly four irregular slopes; these slopes depart from the borders of the square and converge toward the central part of the appellation close to the town. e altitude varies from a base elevation of 390 feet above sea level up to more than 1,900 feet. e soils of Montalcino are the result of different geologic eras as well as the repeated retreats and returns of an ancient sea. Both factors explain the particu- larly complex and diverse nature of these soils. e lower-altitude sites possess younger soils: typically, marine deposits consisting of clay and sand. Areas at higher altitudes possess older, poorer, and shallower soils with high propor- tions of gravel and stones. ey are characterized by the presence of galestro (crumbly schist-like rock) and alberese (fine-grained calcareous marl). With a climate that's mostly Mediterranean, the area benefits from western marine air currents. However, due to Montalcino's inland position and its prox- imity to the Apennine mountain range, there are some continental influences. Its location, coupled with elevation, create significant diurnal temperature swings. e frequent winds and breezes help to mitigate humidity and reduce the risk of fungal disease. Overall, the climate is mild and dry with an average annual rainfall of 27 inches concentrated in spring and late autumn. e lack of summer rainfall promotes a beneficial vegetative slowdown that allows the vines to focus on the ripening process. THE GRAPE: Sangiovese is Italy's most widely-planted grape and Toscana's principal grape variety. It's a difficult grape to cultivate and demands extra care in the vineyard, as it buds early but is late-ripening. Because it's a vigorous vine, it performs best on poor, well-drained soils that keep vegetative growth in check. Sangiovese is drought- and wind-resistant and benefits from a long, warm growing season, yet it does not like excessive heat and prefers substantial diurnal temperature swings. Sangiovese is extremely site-sensitive, behaving differently with even a slight change in growing conditions. Wines made from Sangiovese are high in acidity and have significant tannic grip with aromas and flavors of violets, sour cherry, plum, and tea leaves. BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Celebrating 40 years since the founding of Castello Banfi in Montalcino, Cellar Master Gabriele Pazzaglia will outline the results of four decades of research into Sangiovese clones and the ideal soils for Brunello di Montalcino. e name Brunello means "little dark one" in reference to its color. For a long time, Brunello was considered a variety separate from Sangiovese, but DNA analysis has shown Brunello is, in fact, Sangiovese.