Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/990824
june 2018 / the tasting panel / 81 And while OMAR derives a portion of its character directly from Scotland, its Taiwanese heritage is directly reflected in the impeccable manage- ment of its production. "The Taiwanese excel in factory management, and this excellence concerning production man- agement and quality control is essential for making whisky in a hot and humid environment," Chung says. This heat and humidity affects every aspect of OMAR's distillation process. Because the climate makes raw materi- als much more susceptible to mold contamination, they must be moni- tored thoroughly. Likewise, the wet climate increases the risk of biological contamination during the fermentation process, which means the distillery team must take additional care in timing the yeast pitching while strictly adhering to its standard hygienic and cleaning processes. According to Chung, "The hot envi- ronment also reduces the reflux ratio during distillation, which means [Nantou has] to distill very slowly to make sure [its] new- make spirit is pure." In fact, the outside air is so hot that the condenser must be artificially cooled at all times during distil- lation; temperatures inside the distillery, meanwhile, get so high during the summer that production ceases altogether. While most Scotches are matured at 63.5% ABV, the new-make OMAR is diluted to a lower ABV before it's barreled. "We want to take more of the sugars and water-soluble extracts from wooden barrels to soften our whisky and to satisfy the Taiwanese sweet tooth. However, the strength we dilute to is confidential," Chung adds slyly. WHY TAIWAN? It's not just Taiwanese selective- ness that has made the island the perfect spot for premium whisky production—it's the country's natural environment itself. "Many of our ben- efits are given from nature—not just for OMAR, but for other Taiwanese distillers," says Chung. While the island's tropical climate has required Nantou make the afore- mentioned adjustments to its production process, it also enables the distillery to "achieve matured whiskies in much shorter periods compared to traditional temperate whisky regions like Scotland," Chung explains. OMAR is aged only three to four years before it takes on its char- acteristic amber color and many of the flavor properties consistent with most 12-year-old Scotch. This benefit is not without cost. Due to the heat, Taiwanese whisky loses approximately 6% ABV per year: This is twice the rate of Japanese distillers' product and three times the rate of Taiwan's Scottish counterparts. Chung, however, says "the fast maturation speed is an advantage, as [Nantou] can quickly react to the changing requirements of the market and save on storage times and capital." PREPPING FOR AN AMERICAN DEBUT With OMAR set to hit the American market in July, Chung is confident Americans will embrace its unique East-meets-West bottlings of whisky that stay true to Scotch tradition while incorporating both the Taiwanese attention to detail and rare tropical maturation. "OMAR whiskies not only show traditional notes of honey and wood, but aromas of incense and tropical fruits," says Chung of the Eastern-influenced flavor notes that set OMAR apart from other world whiskies. Chung also mentions OMAR's enticing price point—an asset in both whisky-obsessed Taiwan and the U.S. "OMAR is a premium whisky at a reasonable price, and that should be very attractive," he says. TASTING NOTES OMAR Single Malt Bourbon-Type Whisky sends you to a garden with perfumed aromas of jasmine and ginger-caramel. On the palate, flavors of peach, melon, and honeyed orange peel are alluring. The lean, satiny, and sinewy 92-proof spirit goes grassy toward the finish with a green-pepper spice and a wave of salin- ity. 94 —Meridith May OMAR Single Malt Sherry-Type Whisky takes to the forest with scents of cinnamon, date nut bread, and nutmeg. Sandalwood and caramel apple interplay with savory, woodsy notes of porcini mushroom, orris root, sandalwood, and bergamot. The long finish is dotted with a salinity reminiscent of Himalayan sea salt and a sweeter note of spearmint. 97 —M.M. Chen Ching-shen, the craftsman who oversees barrel repairs, refurbishes a barrel in the Nantou warehouse.