The Tasting Panel magazine

December 2012

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The Stand Out Most Resilient Niner 2007 Fog Catcher, Bootjack Ranch, Paso Robles ($50) Fox Run Vineyards 2010 Riesling 12, Lake Dana Vineyard, Finger Lakes ($30) Before starting in the wine industry, Richard Niner conquered the business world investing in small businesses. It���s no surprise then, that it was one such deal that brought him to the world of wine. After buying Bootjack Ranch in 2001 and Heart Hill Vineyard in 2003, Niner Wine Estates was born. After their inaugural vintage was released in January 2006, it was obvious Niner was here to stay. This blend (Syrah, Merlot, Barbera, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon), whose grapes were grown on the original Bootjack Ranch, has an evolving ���avor of fruits and spices. This wine is sure to make its mark. A creamy fruit bomb that grabs your teeth but still manages Old World acidity. Black and blue fruit mingle with purple ���owers. An underlying splash of creamy espresso and an herbal stoniness makes this a stand-out. Re���ecting the progressive attitude of co-owner Scott Osborn, Fox Run Vineyards sits atop Torrey Ridge, overlooking New York State���s Seneca Lake, pushing the boundaries of what was previously thought possible. Historically, the Finger Lakes were known for their native grape varieties and their FrenchAmerican hybrids, created to withstand the cold. But Osborn refuses to let those beliefs limit him, and Riesling has taken center stage in the Finger Lakes and Fox Run Vineyards has produced a perfect example with their 2010 Riesling 12. Floral and lush with sweet peach, creamy vanilla; long and opulent; balanced and charming. FOX RUN VINEYARDS NINER WINE ESTATES Most Natural The Natural Blonde Hawk and Horse 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Lake County, Red Hills ($65) MacPhail 2010 Chardonnay, Gap���s Crown Vineyard, Sonoma Coast ($45) Hawk and Horse Winery is committed to the lifestyle of Lake County and because of that, does its best to take advantage of its natural resources. California���s North Coast offers rich, red volcanic soils, fresh on-site water sources and pristine air. And that doesn���t include the absolutely stunning vista. These remarkable resources allow, and inspire, Hawk and Horse���s dedication to the environment; they are Demeter-certi���ed Biodynamic and CCOF-certi���ed Organic. With masterful knowledge of their climate and soil, Hawk and Horse specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon, which they can rightfully boast of in this fantastic 2008. We were wowed: It was love at ���rst nosing. Dramatic aromatics of roses and cranberries are startling. While the texture begins with an indulgent plushness, it becomes dusty and mouth-smacking mid-palate. The more you sip, the blacker the fruit, and a sinewy stream of dark chocolate runs parallel to the pool of plums and ink-berries. James MacPhail started MacPhail Pinot Family Wines bent on producing only . . . you guessed it, Pinot Noir. And they do it well. MacPhail Pinot Noir is well-loved, which encouraged MacPhail to branch out a bit. The 2009 vintage marked their ���rst foray into their ���natural blonde,��� which quickly sold out. 2010 shows that the previous year wasn���t just a ���uke and commands MacPhail respect as a serious contender in the ���blonde��� market. Lush and focused with lovely tangy acidity, bright and racy with Burgundian style and elegant, toasted new oak and pure acidity; long and creamy with great structure and style. HAWK AND HORSE VINEYARDS 140 / the tasting panel / december 2012 HESS FAMILY ESTATES

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