Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/948966
march 2018 / the tasting panel / 69 Winter's Hill 2016 Watershed Pinot Gris, Dundee Hills, Oregon ($16) An environmental steward located on two forested parcels in the Dundee Hills, Winter's Hill Estate shares a boundary with springs and wells containing the drinking water for the small towns of Dayton and Lafayette. Whole clusters of handpicked fruit are placed into the press within hours of harvesting and are fermented in stainless steel. Wafting aromas of pineapple and Asian pear are fresh and entic- ing, and the texture is crisp, clear, and sharply focused with a brilliant acidity. Celery and slate form around minerality on the finish. 90 SPIRITS Amaro dell'Etna, Italy ($40) Made using an original recipe from 1901 that features more than 26 herbs and aromatic plants with roots on the Sicilian side of Mt. Etna, this distillate is influenced by the volcanic soil and emits a mineral undertone throughout. On the nose, orange peel and cinnamon bark combine for a sweet and savory scent as white pepper, jasmine, anise root, and rhubarb play midfield. The finish is sumptuous with coffee and cocoa notes. 92 M.S. WALKER Remus Repeal Reserve Straight Bourbon Whiskey, USA Commemorating the repeal of Prohibition in 1933, this 2017 release is a 94-proof whiskey made in Indiana. Aromas of orange peel, oatmeal, and but- terscotch lead you to a flow of baked apple, toffee, fig, and sassy spices: cumin, sage, and peppered cedar. The finish is biscuity with the velvet-hammer touch of the higher proof. This whiskey is built well: a composed balance of strength and finesse. 93 Elijah Craig 18-Year- Old Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, USA ($120) A Double Gold Winner at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, this spirit made us fall in love immediately when we caught the scent of walnut cream and mandarin orange. At 90 proof, flavors of peppered peaches greet the palate with high-toned hints of orange blossoms and hazelnut. Butter and maple syrup melt on the finish. 94 HEAVEN HILL DISTILLERY Bicycle Tree Gin, USA ($30) From Snohomish, Washington, this 86-proof gin has a nose of sweet violets and spearmint. While its main botanicals include raspberry leaf, mint, rosehips, and lemongrass, the spirit's many layers and textures continue to reveal themselves. A silky entry leads to creamy marshmallow, cut grass, and a finish of lemon zest. Quite pleasant! 91 SKIP ROCK DISTILLERS Los Sundays Blanco Tequila, Mexico ($38) Here's a 70-proof, 100% agave tequila with natural coconut flavor and a nose both subtle and clean. The agave earthi- ness and crisp lime come through in the perfume. The palate is classy: not a "flavored" liqueur, but a wonderful, refreshingly elegant spirit with flavor. The coconut stays through to the finish, with minerality and bright grapefruit peel notes woven in. A winner. 92 LOS SUNDAYS FAMILIA LLC V.E.S. Gin, Australia ($45) This focused gin is copper-pot distilled six times and made from organic raw sugar. At 90 proof, the heat doesn't seem to overpower or mask the aromatics or flavors. A minerality occurs on the nose with slate and steely notes alongside lavender and subdued juniper. The sweetness on the palate reveals itself ahead of the grape and blue floral tones that follow suit. The finish is creamy with blueberry and candied plum. 90 Partners Sweet Vermouth, USA ($25) What a find! Petite Sirah, Merlot, and fresh cherries are just a few of the out- standing ingredients in this exotically-spiced domestic vermouth. Sourced from gardens and vineyards in Northern California wine country, iconic winemaker Steve Matthiasson, a fan of vermouth, lent his efforts to this project. With a perfumed nose of Italian herbs like oregano and basil inter- twined with black-skinned cherries, the flavor profile offers up notes of jasmine and fennel. We made a glorious Boulevardier cocktail and also loved this on the rocks. 94 VINTAGE WINE ESTATES