The Tasting Panel magazine

March 2018

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march 2018  /  the tasting panel  /  57 W hen Master Sommelier and wine- maker Richard Betts ventured south of the border with a goal of immers- ing himself in the world of tequila, it didn't take long for his plans to shift course. A native of Tucson, Arizona, who grew up drink- ing agave-derived bacanora liquor in Sonora, Mexico, Betts instead found himself enamored by mezcal and the terroir of Oaxaca. Above all, Betts was drawn to the spirit's robust ties to the people, geography, history, and cuisine of the region. Twenty-six of Mexico's 32 states have a history of mezcal production, but Oaxaca, with its varied terrain and diversity of agave varieties, has become the epicen- ter of the mezcal movement. In launching his own super-premium mezcal brand, Sombra, Betts has tapped into Oaxaca's vast potential for producing spirits with a regional character so distinct it practically leaps from the glass. Betts is adamant about following traditional methods when it comes to production of the label, which won a Double Gold medal at the 2016 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. "Sombra is produced in the same way mezcal has been made in Mexico for several hundred years," Betts says. "It's about organically-farmed, mountain-grown agave that is hand-harvested, stone tahona–ground, wild yeast–fermented, and copper pot still–distilled. It's a painstaking process that requires time, effort, and age-old expertise." Sombra's relationship with its home region is just as important as the contents of the bottle to Betts, and he's constantly looking for ways to improve the brand's production methods to adhere to environmentally- friendly practices. In addition to collecting rainwater and utilizing solar power, the distillery sources its firewood from certified sustainable forests, composts its fermented agave and effluent for area farmers, and upcycles agave byproduct into compressed adobe bricks for local housing. The company is also a member of global organiza- tion 1% For the Planet, donating 1 percent of sales to environmental charities and educational initiatives in Oaxaca. "When we decided at Sombra to build our own distillery, we were forced to confront the question of how to make mezcal clean and modern without sacrific- ing the artisanal craft—how to respect tradition but also transcend it," Betts says. The agave used in Sombra's mezcal is harvested by hand in Oaxaca, Mexico. After the agave is harvested, it's then roasted over an open fire with firewood sourced from certified sustainable forests.

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