Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/948966
A Fresh Taste of Ireland: West Cork Distillers I nstead of framing its products' embodi- ment of terroir solely around ingredients, the team at West Cork Distillers decided to turn up the heat—literally—on its whiskies' regional character. Using a proprietary device that a local fifth-generation blacksmith helped develop, the distillery chars some of its barrels with natural fuel from the Glengarriff Forest in Southern Ireland. After the single malt whiskey ages in Sherry casks for four years, Glengarriff Collection Peat Charred Cask (SRP $45) and Bog Oak Charred Cask (SRP $45) finish in these barrels and emerge as distinctive and enduring expressions. These limited releases join the already impressive portfolio of West Cork, including the 10 Year Single Malt, which ages for ten years in flame-charred bourbon barrels, and the Blended Bourbon Cask, which mixes grain and malt to produce an approachable whiskey. West Cork 10 Year Single Malt ($40) The nose exhibits both baked and crisp Gala apples with a hint of cinnamon. Musky sandalwood opens up further along with honeyed pancake batter. On the palate, the liquid slithers in a sensuous flow, with the honey becoming brighter and the stream of stone fruit "juice" growing more unctuous toward the white-pepper finish. 96 —Meridith May West Cork Blended Bourbon Cask ($27) Aromas of brown sugar and figs, as well as hazelnut butter and nougat, are lovely openers. The gossamer texture is preternatural; it glides and melts, glides and melts. A pinch of Himalayan salt seems to just pat the middle of the tongue as apricot and cedar intermingle. 98 —M.M. M.S. WALKER Best of the Midwest: KOVAL SINGLE BARREL BOURBON WHISKEY R obert and Sonat Birnecker sought to produce organic craft spirits when they opened Chicago's first distillery since the mid- 1800s. To ensure the quality of each of their releases at KOVAL—which drew its name from the Yiddish word for "black sheep," or some- one who forges ahead—they contracted with local Midwestern farmers for the grain, which they then mill, mash, distill, and bottle onsite. KOVAL uses only the "heart cut" of the distillate for its whiskey, which results in the brand's signature clean, grain- forward style. Made of 51% corn, KOVAL Single Barrel Bourbon Whiskey forgoes the usual rye or wheat and instead rounds out its mash bill with millet. The water used to create this bourbon comes from Lake Michigan through a natural charcoal purification process. The bourbon ages for two to four years in American oak barrels made by The Barrel Mill, located in Minnesota. KOVAL Bourbon is Certified Organic by the Midwestern Organic Services Association and Certified Kosher through the Orthodox Union, giving your customers peace of mind in their whiskey choice. 98 / the tasting panel / march 2018 REPORT whiskey