The SOMM Journal

December 2017 / January 2018

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114 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017/2018 So much for French consolation. Despite the difficult vintage, several of the 1987s from both appellations assured that years of pleasurable enjoyment still lay ahead. Sonoma's Laurel Glen and Napa's Joseph Phelps particularly stood out, but the somms' nominee for the Fountain of Youth Hall of Fame went to . . . envelope, please . . . the relatively-inexpensive Frog's Leap from Napa. The somms' written comments about it read like fervent cheers: "So much energy for a 30-year-old wine!" "Impeccable fruit!" "Still growing! Not done!" With the overwhelmingly positive results of the 1987 flight fresh in their minds, the somms' expectations were high for the 1997 and 2007 vintages— especially since both had been lauded in the early press reviews. The 1997 was touted as "nearly perfect," and Wine Spectator awarded 99 points specifically to the 2007 Cabernet vintage. The "elite eight" California Cabs from left to right: Joseph Phelps Vineyards, Napa Valley; Mayacamas Vineyards, Mt. Veeder–Napa Valley; A. Rafanelli, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County; Alexander Valley Vineyards, Alexander Valley; Jordan, Alexander Valley; Frog's Leap, Rutherford; Corison, Napa Valley; and Laurel Glen Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain. " The retrospective had clearly illuminated the evolution of California Cabernet winemaking as the region sought its own identity. The first decade showed California's early emulation of Bordeaux, while the later vintage style increasingly har- kened back to the brash American alacrity typi- fied in Rhapsody in Blue. " Jeff Lindsay-Thorsen, Lead Sommelier at Mina Group's RN74 in Seattle, awaits the retrospective tasting.

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