Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/884376
76 / the tasting panel / october 2017 Hahn Estate SLH 2015 GSM, Santa Lucia Highlands ($45) Hahn's SLH Vineyards—Lone Oak, Smith, Doctor's, and Hook— are planted on a narrow bench on well-drained soils in one of California's most prestigious growing areas. The GSM blend of 63% Grenache, 24% Syrah, and 13% Mourvèdre is all grown in the Hook Vineyard. With aromas of blackberry and spiced dark chocolate, the palate offers warm cinnamon toast, plum liqueur, and soy sauce. Tannins are delicate and slightly dry, carrying the fruit and spice to a long finish. 93 Foxen 2015 Pinot Noir, John Sebastiano Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills ($52) Aged 17 months in French oak barrels, this small production Pinot Noir offers up a nose of cinnamon, lanolin, heather, and tilled soil. Chai tea and spiced rose petals permeate the palate, with dots of white pepper, toffee oak, and cherry tart on the finish. 91 Shafer Vineyards 2015 TD-9, Napa Valley ($60) While the TD-9 refers to the tractor that transformed John Shafer's train-riding commuter life to one of vinous adventure, this elegant liquid is far from mechanical. Aged for 20 months in French oak and at a seemingly high ABV of 15.3%, this is a charming balancing act of Stags Leap-ian quality. Plush tannins are finely grained in this blend of 56% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 16% Malbec. Notes of lavender, mocha cappuccino, black raspberry, and saddle leather combine with an animale core—savory and dark. The finish has a hint of dark chocolate–covered orange peel. 95 Hawk & Horse Vineyards 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Hills AVA, Lake County ($70) Only 1,500 cases are made of this striking Cab (with 3% Petit Verdot), grown on rocky red volcanic soils. The Demeter-certified Biodynamic winery is home to 18 acres of vineyard and a herd of Scottish Highland cattle. Fragrant notes of violet and mountain brush combine with summer blueberry. The chalky dry tannins move to a mineral core, with a velvety mouthfeel emerging with bright boysenberry, beets, tomato leaf, and bacon. 94 Senses 2014 Hillcrest Estate Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($75) Sensual aromas of rose petal, spiced cedar, and charred cherry are an introduction to this opulent Pinot Noir. The silky mouthfeel, along with a bright strawberry fruit compo- nent, delves into deeper territory of sarsa- parilla, white pepper, and tobacco. The acidity lingers on the finish and a briny note picks up along with that lovely rose petal. 94 Gerardo Cesari 2008 Bosan Amarone della Valpolicella DOC, Italy ($115) A single-vineyard Amarone produced in the Illasi Valley, made up of 80% Corvina and 20% Rondinella. Ultimate Old World acidity with a concentrated and full-bodied mouthfeel. Earthy notes of tobacco meld with sour cherry, jammy blackberry, and dark chocolate–covered raisins. 93 OPICI WINES SPIRITS ArArAt Brandy 5 Years Old, Armenia ($23) Aromas of black tea, peach, orange, and marzipan create a mesmerizing effect for this elegant brandy from Armenia. At 80-proof, the palate is luxurious with flavors of oatmeal, plum, apricot, and melting brown buttered sugar. The entry is lush and weighty. 94 Ayate Tequila Reposado, Mexico ($65) This tequila is the collaboration of Napa Winemaker Dave Phinney and the Ramirez family of Guanajuanto, Mexico. From fields in the high- lands of Jalisco at an elevation of 7,000 feet, only the most mature agaves are chosen, ranging in age from six to eight years old. Distilled in cooper pot stills, the aromas are seductive with vanilla bean, key lime, banana bread, and kiwi. The palate reinforces the fruit notes: from pineapple to cantaloupe and brings in heather and a touch of ginger. Elegant and not over-wooded. 93 SAVAGE & COOKE Michter's US*1 Toasted Barrel Finish Rye, USA ($75) Michter's US*1 Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Rye is taken at barrel strength and aged for an additional time period in custom-made toasted (not charred) barrels. With a nose that delivers a message of grace and power, notes of burnt orange peel, resin, caramel pudding, and baked peaches are impressive and amplified. The palate, with a proof of 110, powers the flavors on peppered wheels, the engine revved with cedar, pound cake, and apricot honey. Tobacco edges in with the fruit for a dynamic finish. 95 MICHTER'S DISTILLERY Luna Nuda 2016 Pinot Grigio, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT, Alto Adige, Italy ($13) One of the prettiest examples of this variety, crafted by the fourth-generation- winemaking Giovanett family. Hand-picked and hand-sorted fruit. Meaning "naked moon," the winemaker believes in the effects of the full moon on his wines' production. The nose is crisp and clean: a lemon slate from Alpine air. Asian pear and lean mineral notes interplay with vanilla pudding, white tea, and honeysuckle. 93 BLUE RIDGE SPIRITS Award of Excellence