Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/884376
october 2017 / the tasting panel / 65 If you've never had your picture drawn by a carica- turist at a fair or a carnival, I highly recommend doing so. Not only does the experience take you out of your comfort zone, it highlights the whimsy and lightheartedness we carry on our countenances but may not notice ourselves. In so many ways, this is what LangeTwins Family Winery and Vineyards has succeeded in doing through its line of Caricature wines—presenting the most vivacious and gregarious versions of the varietals used in its blends. The resulting wines are as much of a joy to drink as they are to share. While Caricature wines are meant to serve as jovial embel- lishments of distinction in winemaking, there is nothing frivolous about winemaker Karen Birmingham's qualifica- tions. With a bachelor's degree in microbiology, a master's degree in food science, and years of winemaking experience prior to joining the LangeTwins team in 2008, Birmingham brought a genuine love for wine—not simply the act of growing grapes and making wine, but a sincere enjoyment of the finished product. This passion is echoed by Pietro "Pete" Murdaca, third-generation owner and Executive Chef of Pietro's, a local favorite in Lodi, California. "The Caricature wines hold a big presence on our wine list and in our restaurant," explains Murdaca. "The Caricature Red Blend in particular is a very versatile wine in price and flavor profile. Our guests feel there is both quality and value with the Caricature wines while still feeling satisfied with what is in the bottle and in supporting a local Lodi wine. From a chef's point of view, Caricature is an easy wine to recommend." Opened in 1957 by Murdaca's grandparents, Pietro and Amelia, Pietro's is still a time-honored favorite serving up traditional Italian recipes from Amelia's cookbook and pleas- ing local palates with a selection of wines complementing the cuisine. It has also bolstered the regional wine industry, with LangeTwins' wines long holding a place on its list. "As an owner and third-generation restaurateur myself, you can see that what the LangeTwins family puts into the bottle is done with passion and an awareness of what came before them," explains Murdaca. "Lodi is a small town with families that have been here for generations; the LangeTwins Family is one such family and so am I. Caricature is another element of the generational pride that the LangeTwins Family invest in every bottle. You can pair it with just about any entrée from fish to steak and my favorite, our cioppino." While the majority of the Caricature Red Blend is Cabernet Sauvignon (82%), the remainder is Zinfandel (12%) and 2% each of Teroldego, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. These are five varieties not often seen in one blend—as in never. Zinfandel is intrinsically Lodi, and the native Bordeaux varieties of Malbec and Petit Verdot have indeed found a voice in California's sunny climates. But Teroldego? Well, that's one that is off the beaten path, to be sure. A red Italian grape variety grown primarily in the northeastern region of Trentino-Alto Adige in Italy, Teroldego is heavy in black fruit and, alongside Malbec and Petit Verdot, lends a beefy, juicy voice to the Caricature Red Blend. The resultant wine is easy to drink, plush, and friendly with rich black and juicy red fruit—dark cherries, blackberries, and ripe plums. "It has the jammy qualities of a Zin and the smokiness and bright fruit of a Cab," remarks Murdaca. "But above all, Caricature has a strong presence of Lodi in each bottle." Caricature's Red Wine is easy to drink, plush, and friendly with rich black and juicy red fruit—dark cherries, blackber- ries, and ripe plums. "It has the jammy qualities of a Zin and the smokiness and bright fruit of a Cab," remarks Pietro Murdaca, Owner/Executive Chef of Pietro's in Lodi, CA. "But above all, Caricature has a strong presence of Lodi in each bottle." LANGETWINS SUCCEEDS IN COAXING THE LIGHTER SIDE OUT OF LODI WITH CARICATURE WINES by Karen Moneymaker / photos by Kevin Fiscus