Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/884376
october 2017 / the tasting panel / 1 19 60 percent of our menu is not beef," Selheim says. "That means we're pouring a lot more than just powerful Cabernets." She explains that given Charleston's climate and seafood/pro- duce-centric menus, lighter, brighter, and more acidic wines play very well. "We take cues from coastal Europe, where they also serve a lot of seafood and fresh produce," Selheim continues. "The wines produced there—Muscadet, for example—also work well here." Head Sommelier Rick Rubel and Assistant Sommelier Andrew Marshall of Charleston Grill note the same trend towards lighter, fresher styles that nurture more venturesome palates. But Rubel also credits the advent of better wine-preserving technology. "Argon gas has revolutionized what and how we serve," he says. "We're now willing to pull the cork on a 100-dollar Riesling from Alsace to pour by the glass, which we would never have dreamed of doing before. It allows us to introduce wines by the glass that would cost $25 more per bottle than what that diner is accustomed to paying, but they're surprised by the tremendous value that wine offers when they experience the quality." Austin Doyle, Beverage Manager at Circa 1886 in the Wentworth Mansion, a boutique hotel housed in an opulent 1880s estate, also welcomes the expanded by-the-glass trend. A growing demand for Napa Cabernet prompted him to launch an innovative Wines by the Ounce program. "This allows our guests to experience the famous Napa Cabernets, such as Rudd Oakville Estate, Caymus, Newton, and Opus One, without having to invest in an entire bottle." Rubel also notices that Charleston wine drinkers are generally displaying an appetite for more elegance and finesse. Vonda Freeman, Wine Director for The Macintosh, confirms the trend: "Freshness and balance trump heavy oak and high alcohol. We're pouring more Pinot Noir from New Zealand, light red blends from California, and always wines from the Rhône Valley." Co-Owner and Wine Buyer Trudi Wagner of Goat.Sheep.Cow, located in a stunningly-adapted warehouse in the red-hot Upper King district, notices a lot of demand for Loire Valley whites and reds and a resurgence in Beaujolais. She is also pouring a lot of affordable light Italian reds that pair well with the restaurant's artisanal cheeses and charcuterie. Dennis Perry, Sommelier for Peninsula Grill, which has had an enviable wine program for years, notes the restaurant's pride in showcasing locally-grown items. "One of my current favorites to pair with our local ingredients is Gruet Brut Blanc de Blancs, a sparkling wine from a family-owned winery in New Mexico. Charleston's delightful subtropi- cal climate practically begs us to serve the Gruet—with its hints of honeysuckle and lemon zest as well as excellent bead in the glass—in our outdoor courtyard," he says. A poet would be hard-pressed to coin a more apt description of a quintessen- tial Charleston moment—especially one involving a glass in hand. Assistant Sommelier Andrew Marshall and Head Sommelier Rick Rubel of Charleston Grill in Belmond Charleston Place note a trend towards lighter, fresher styles of wine that nurture more venturesome palates. Erika Selheim, the sommelier for The Ocean Room at The Sanctuary Hotel at Kiawah Island Golf Resort, notes, "A strong wine program has always been impor- tant here. It's just that the wine is not local like so much of the food on our menus."