The Tasting Panel magazine

September 2017

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september 2017  /  the tasting panel  /  45 Odessa Brandy Founded 154 years ago, the Shustov distillery in Odessa is currently the largest brandy distillery in Europe, employing 350 people with current production at about 12 million liters annually (although there is potential to produce 30 million liters). That might seem like a lot of brandy, but Ukrainians have a palate for it and history as well; its 45 million residents consume about 50,000 cases each year. All grapes used for Odessa brandy are from the Odessa region, including Ugni Blanc (typical of Cognac), Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, grown right on their property. Eduard Gorodetskyi is the affable CEO of Odessa Brandy—part of Global Spirits' portfolio—and in 2000 he helped facilitate the purchase of additional alembic stills made in France to ramp up production. "We cannot compete against the market share held by the large Cognac houses of France, but we can compete with them on quality and taste," he says. Odessa's focus on quality includes distilling 5 percent of the wine on the lees prior to distillation to create a silkier texture. Ukrainian law requires three years minimum aging, and Odessa uses oak from France, Ukraine and Hungary. They typically age 15,000 barrels in seven locations, with their oldest barrels dating to 1966. After sampling many brandies with Gorodetskyi, many of which can only be found in the EU, there is a surprising finesse and maturity about them. Odessa Brandy also makes limited-series production brandies strictly for the Ukraine market, including a stunningly rich 37-year aged brandy. On the horizon for Odessa is a peat-infused brandy. The United States is their primary export market and sec- ondary markets include Canada, Australia and Thailand. Odessa Brandy is currently found in 18 states, including California, New York, Texas and Illinois. "We cannot compete against the market share held by the large Cognac houses of France, but we can compete with them on quality and taste." Eduard Gorodetskyi, CEO of Odessa Brandy, which is part of Global Spirits' portfolio. Ugni Blanc grows at the doorstep of the Shustov Distillery, where Odessa Brandy is made.

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