Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/859549
96 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 fabulous mouth-watering acidity and luscious, round texture. "It's a delicious, fun and unique wine to try—definitely worth seeking out." And Aldo Sohm, Head Sommelier at Le Bernardin and owner of Aldo Sohm Wine Bar in New York City, features Stadlmann Zierfandler on his wine lists. "I love that wine. It drinks so pure and elegant and pairs well with so many dishes. Our guests are responding really well to it." Zierfandler is often blended with Rotgipfler, another specialty of the Thermenregion. DNA tests have determined Rotgipfler is a cross of Savagnin and Roter Veltliner, thereby making it a half-sibling to Zierfandler and equally susceptible to botrytis, although it ripens a bit earlier. Stadlmann notes Rotgipfler wines are more aromatic with warmer tones than Zierfandler and higher alcohol levels. "The texture is fleshier, its fruit opulent and rich with a distinctive spicy character and chalky backbone." While Rotgipfler can age well, the wine is approachable earlier than Zierfandler. "Rotgipfler grows in opulence while developing, Zierfandler into elegance." Caha admits that while these rare grapes may never go mainstream, they are worth the fight. "Anyone who enjoys and appreciates lesser-known indigenous varieties should celebrate and salute the Stadlmann family. They could get rich growing other varieties, but they preserved Zierfandler and Rotgipfler because they believe in them. They are my heroes." Willi Klinger, Managing Director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB), calls Zierfandler and Rotgipfler "part of our treasure" of indigenous and rare grape varieties capable of yielding unique, high-quality wines. "Until now, these grapes have flourished in secret, appreciated only by locals or very curious connoisseurs from abroad. But today, an increasing number of wine lovers are discovering these obscure varieties. Once they taste these noble jewels of Austria, I am sure they will love them." In a timely display of solidarity at the recent MUST wine summit in Cascais, Portugal, Swiss grape geneticist José Vouillamoz, co-author of Wine Grapes, included Zierfandler in his wish list of obscure grapes that could become stars of the future. In philosophy there exists the concept of Zeitgeist: a powerful force that inspires trends and defines the spirit of an era. Standing with Bernhard Stadlmann on a hill overlooking Mandel Höf, glass of Zierfandler in hand, I watched a train dip into the tunnel and disappear toward a horizon of unseen possibility. Suddenly and simultaneously, I felt the gravity of history and the uplift of epiphany. Indeed—perhaps the Zeitgeist for Zierfandler has arrived. Austria's Red Revolution Beyond Zweigelt, red wine is generally not asso- ciated with Austria. Aldo Sohm, Head Sommelier at Le Bernardin in NYC, believes that is fast changing, due in part to the rising popularity of two previously overlooked but deliciously intriguing varieties: Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent (Sankt Laurent). Blaufränkisch (aka Lemberger), a dark-berried, robust Austro-Hungarian variety, is the second most plan - ted red grape in Austria (2,808 hectares; Zweigelt reigns with 6,311 hecta - res). It is mainly cultivated in Burgenland and eastern Niederösterreich near Hungary (where it's known as Kékfrankos). Capable of pro - ducing deeply colored, full-bodied wines with black fruit and a spicy, savory character, Blaufränkisch is especially expressive of site and terroir. "It is a bit of a chameleon," says Sariya Jarasviroj Brown of Circo Vino. "It has a large bandwidth capable of a wide range of styles, from fresh and fruity to peppery and incredibly robust." Jesse Becker, MS, believes Blaufränkisch has a bright future and recommends Weingut J. Heinrich. "If there is one variety that will take off, it will be Blaufränkisch." St. Laurent has its disciples too. But "it's a funny one," say Becker. Depending on where its grown and how its vinified, St. Laurent can deliver characteristics that either mimic velvety red- fruit Pinot Noir or meaty, earthy cool-climate Syrah. The origin of St. Laurent is even murkier. Leading grape geneticist José Vouillamoz, co-author of Wine Grapes, told The Somm Journal in an email that the parentage of St. Laurent "is a long and complex story." Nonetheless, he con - firms St. Laurent is indeed "a progeny of Pinot," cultivated for centuries in the Thermenregion, Neusiedlersee and Weinviertel regions of Austria. Back at Le Bernardin in NYC, Aldo Sohm includes the Rosi Schuster 2015 St. Laurent on Chef Éric Ripert's tasting menu. The pairing? Baked striped bass, spaghetti squash and green papaya salad with ginger red wine sauce. P H O TO : A W MB/ F A BE R P H O TO : A W MB/ F A BE R Michael Reinisch of Johanneshof Reinisch winery (left) and Bernhard Stadlmann (right) present a guided tasting of the wines of the Thermenregion during the Austrian Wine Summit in May. Stadlmann's family has been cultivating Zierfandler at Mandel-Höh for 170 years; he is an eighth-generation winemaker at Weingut Stadlmann. PHOTO: AWMB/ANNA STÖCHER