Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/859549
70 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 tests by smaller and smaller batches since 1994. They request two levels of samples from their supplier. First the raw, unsealed corks: "We put ten corks into a jar with 250 milliliters of our estate Chardonnay and let it soak overnight. Then we taste to see the array of flavors each lot has. The [oak] fam - ily provides the cork (Quecus suber) and the barrel (Quecus alba), and we examine closely what they both contribute to the flavors of our wine over time. We test the second, paraffin or silicone-coated batch, to ensure there is no flavor coming from the sealant. The paraffin dissolves over time, so the original flavors will be imparted into a developing wine as it is cellared. Our sup - pliers harvest, clean and process carefully. Cork has a pretty amazing structure. Its porosity is massive. Its carbon rings make it a huge sponge, soaking up whatever is in its environment. We laser-engrave all cork- origin info onto our bottles so we can trace it if there is ever an issue." He adds, "I feel the industry has gotten a good handle on things, such as projects for individual cork testing. Now we can focus on the environ - mental benefits of natural cork, keeping a forest alive, not to mention providing an economy to Portugal." Margaret Kruse notes that cork suppliers have invested heavily in technology such as gas chromatography to test for flaws down to 0.8 parts per trillion (ppt). Customers have to pay for this, but it virtually guaran - tees clean product. Operational Director of the InterCork program of APCOR, Carlos de Jesus, who along with Dr. Paolo Lopes conducted extensive research over the past several years explains, "The current incidence at 0.8ppt is the best that we can measure. Gas chromatography measures 0.5 of a nanogram (half of a ppt). Zero degrees does not exist. If we are below 0.5 of a nanogram, which is the lowest the machine detects, we are safe. Human detection is 1.5 to 2.0 for Champagne (the most sensitive), and 3 to 4 nanograms per liter for reds." He adds, "The cork story involves three levels: the people, the planet and the profits. Cork harvesters are paid up to $125 euros per day, often taking holidays from their full- Modern corks go through rigorous testing. In 2016, seven out of ten wines were sold with a cork closure. PHOTOS COURTESY OF APCOR Cork suppliers have made massive invest- ments in technology. PHOTO COURTESY OF APCOR QUICK CORK FACT: The cork tree is native to the Mediterranean, but grows well in Healdsburg, and in Lodi, California, where it is their official tree. The cork tree is native to the Mediterranean, but grows well in Healdsburg, and in Lodi, California, where it is their official tree. About APCOR The Portuguese Cork Association (APCOR) exists to promote natural cork and its products. APCOR is the employ- ers' association of the cork sector that represents, pro- motes and carries out research in the Portuguese cork industry. It was created in 1956 and is based in Santa Maria de Lamas, in the council of Santa Maria da Feira, at the heart of the cork industry around 30 kilometers from Porto, Portugal's second largest city. Membership of the association is open to all companies operating in the fields of production, marketing or export of cork products. The organization advocates on behalf of the Portuguese cork industry worldwide and is the driving force of an industry based on tradition, innovation and sustainability. www.apcor.pt/en/